Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Chris Miller & Rick Shull, June 2000
Page Views: 1,986 total · 13/month
Shared By: C Miller on May 12, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

104 Opinions

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Jam, stem and lieback your way up large flakes clipping bolts as you go. The crux is near the top and involves a somewhat wild move to get established on the upper face that leads to the anchors.

Short and kinda scrappy but perhaps still worth doing as a warmup or whilst waiting for nearby routes to free up.


On the far left side of the wall between Better Luck Next Time and Lucky Cuss.


4 bolts, chain anchors
Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
I think we used to call this "grotty"..... don't expect much. May 14, 2007
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
I don't know... I think this is a fun route. Good pumpy start and how often do ya get to do hand jams on a sport route? ;-) May 30, 2007
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
I wouldn't recommend doing this EVER...even for a warmpup Jul 11, 2010
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
hm... the route was short, but I don't remember the rock being bad quality, the bolts seemed solid and reasonably placed, the climb was maybe not too sustained, but there was a distinct crux. I enjoyed it, just a typical, average run of the mill sport route. Jul 9, 2012
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
I liked this climb - very physical and unusual and held its interest all the way to the finishing clips. I like Bill's comment about using jams - that's the first time I've done hand jams on a sport route. Jun 16, 2013
There is an important hand that is now a loose block at or near the crux. It was marginally marked with X - be careful. Both my partner and I opted to bail from the route (10 is tops for our sport leads.) Aug 6, 2015
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
Took me two attempts to finish this route. Only did it the second time around because I wasn't about to leave my gear on the wall. The hold that was mentioned to be loose is on the top of the bulge on the right side of the large crack a couple feet below the last bolt before the anchors. It's definitely a crux hold and should probably be avoided until someone more experienced than myself goes up there and decides what to do about it, whether to reinforce it or remove it. I enjoyed the movement on the first half of the route a lot though so I think this route has good potential to be higher starred if cleaned up. Until then, unfortunately I have to give it a bomb to avoid it. Jun 4, 2016
All up in yo bidniss.
TacoDelRio   All up in yo bidniss.
Led it on gear. Placed a few cams and a small offset nut. Brought up singles from tiny to 4. Placed the 4, maybe a 3, etc. Been wanting to lead it on gear for a few years. Jun 13, 2016
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Single star only for proximity. The route really isn't that good. Awkward at the start, funky at the top. But if you're looking for something to wiggle around on while the gaggle of top ropers move along from the routes to the right I suppose it's an option. YMMV. Jul 14, 2017
Tianyu Yao
San Diego
Tianyu Yao   San Diego
It's a fun one for those who dream of trad one day. At least 3 completely unnecessary hand jams can save a decent amount of juice for this short climb. Sep 9, 2017