Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Chris Miller & Lisa Guindon, May 1997
Page Views: 5,738 total · 37/month
Shared By: C Miller on May 9, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


185 Opinions

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Description

This is a long, varied and popular route that weaves it's way up the featured face past a distinct crux over a bulge past the 5th bolt and finishes with moves over a small roof to a short section of slab below the anchors.

At the crux it's possible to go left into a crack system and then cut back right - done this way it's probably 5.8 or so.

Location

The next bolted route right of Bum Steer on the right side of the face.

Protection

9 bolts, chain anchors
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Pretty good route on quasi wandering and featured terrain. Again, the bolt line is not where all the holds live, but fun none the less. Do it! May 14, 2007
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.10a/b
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.10a/b
The climbing is fun and not sustained. May 21, 2007
Rob M
Shangri-LA
 
Rob M   Shangri-LA
 
I think it feels like a solid 10b. The crux is next to last bolt from top; do it fresh--it's long and winds back and forth. I'm sure its much easier once its dialed in a couple of times. Jun 14, 2010
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10a/b
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10a/b
Very wandering climb. Guide book shows to straight up and angle right than angle backleft. I went up right, traverse left, up, traverse right again then up. Different variations to this climb, but still fun. Jul 11, 2010
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
  5.10a
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
  5.10a
Overall a fun route, but it does seem a bit contrived. The crux bolt is placed right of the natural line to force you through the crux moves. Jun 13, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10b
Top notch long moderate, which has a couple of options at the crux, if one stays on the bolt line it certainly 5.10a at least. Jul 10, 2011
Sounds like I climbed the 5.8 version of this thing. Didn't have any knowledge of the route other than the name and the grade and just followed the line that was natural to me, apparently meaning I went left at the crux!

I'll say this - I started from the ground up not on the elevated step that cuts out some tricky opening moves. I actually thought starting this way was worthy of the 10a grade. Jul 24, 2014
Petr
  5.10a
Petr  
  5.10a
Going straight up the crux section sure felt more like 10c to me Oct 16, 2014