Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Claim Jumper Wall

Better Luck Next Time S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blue Sky Mine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bobbing for Ear Snax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brewed Awakening T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bum Steer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bye Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chaps My Hide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Claim Jumper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Colonial Ear Wax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coyotes in the Henhouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dos Dose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Goblin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangin' Judge, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Lady Luck S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lucky Cuss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mad Season S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Necktie Party S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
One Armed Bandit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Papper, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Public Hanging S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Chris Miller & Roger Stephens, July 1997
Page Views: 1,375 total, 10/month
Shared By: C Miller on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


76 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A short ways left of Claim Jumper is this fairly long route that, like it's neighbor, weaves it's way up the face. Boulder up positive edges at the start and then head left to the rounded arete with a distinct crux at the 5th bolt (going straight up is possible but harder). Once past the crux, the holds get huge as the bolts become fairly spaced apart making for an exhilarating finish.

The climbing on this is decent but a number of holds are suspect and may break, including holds at the crux, so heads up. More traffic will help to clean this up and possibly improve the quality of the route.

Protection

7 bolts, sport anchors
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Another so-so route to do if your main objective is taken. Erik is right, the anchor is a mess - still is 4 years later. Fatty cold-shuts with single smash links below. Difficult to thread, a for sure rope twister and rumors of stuck ropes from the pull. We avoided by using the links above not the smash-links.

I've done the route in the past, and might do it again but in no rush. Anyone reading this today should bring up a set of quick links as MisterE suggested or just donate a few leave-it biners. Neither of which I was prepared for or would have done the community service. Jul 14, 2017
Like other routes on this wall, I'd say this one could be easy to misread but I think it's more straight-forward than Claim Jumper. Well protected and sports a cool mantel. Jul 25, 2014
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
The climb is a good one, but the anchors are jacked (now?) because the cold-links on the anchor lie flat against the rock. DO NOT THREAD THESE LINKS FOR A LOWER OR RAPPEL, thread the anchors directly and rappel.

Would someone PLEASE add a couple of 3/8" quick-links to this mess? We didn't have two with us or we would have.

I'll delete some of this when the fix is posted.

Erik Aug 13, 2013
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Man, Chris, I'm glad it's a member of the FA team leaving a description like that! I really enjoy this climb - fun and representative of the 10a's at Holcomb. But I'm still at the stage were I feel like a big boy anytime I redpoint a 10, ha ha. Jun 16, 2007