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Routes in Claim Jumper Wall

Better Luck Next Time S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blue Sky Mine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bobbing for Ear Snax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brewed Awakening T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bum Steer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bye Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chaps My Hide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Claim Jumper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Colonial Ear Wax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coyotes in the Henhouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dos Dose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Goblin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangin' Judge, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Lady Luck S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lucky Cuss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mad Season S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Necktie Party S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
One Armed Bandit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Papper, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Public Hanging S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob Cable, 1988
Page Views: 1,835 total, 20/month
Shared By: Nathan Scherneck on Jun 27, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the obvious flared dihedral right of Claim Jumper. Combines good jams with chimney/off-width technique.

Protection

Gear to 4", can use the anchors on One Armed Bandit.

Photos

Ronald B
Los Angeles, CA
 
Ronald B   Los Angeles, CA
 
If you're comfortable chimneying it's not so bad. The first time I attempted this I was terrible at chimneys and couldn't get past the flared dihedral. Came back a couple months later with more chimney experience and it was way easier. Used mostly thin gear except for a #4 halfway up the chimney section and a #2 near the top. Oct 27, 2016
Matt Himmelstein
Orange, California
 
Matt Himmelstein   Orange, California
 
It is good thing this climb was easy, since the protection is terrible. I placed my first piece at he level of the 3rd bolt of One Armed Bandit and my second at the level of the 6th. I would not recommend this for someone who is leading at the 5.7 or 5.8 level. Bring some big gear. Jul 17, 2016
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
Climbed this on toprope today for a fun diversion from the sport routes around it. I can see where somebody would call the bottom section 5.7, if you were cool with climbing funky, steep, flaring chimneys with bad pro (unless maybe you have a set of big hexes). But this is going to be a shocker for anyone who is at Holcomb expecting 5.7.

The top section is more like what Holcomb has to offer in general, but still, not really. If you're okay with hand and fist jamming, this section of overhanging crack probably goes at 5.8, but if you're not, the platy face holds are infrequent and steep enough that it's more like a 9 or 10.

Long story short, don't be surprised. Sep 29, 2013
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
 
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
 
I was a little nervous about the blocks in the last steep section before the anchors. There is a lot of "loose" material, some of which is quite large. It's a matter of time before pieces of it come down and I hope nobody is there when it does.

With that being said, three of us climbed through them today. This is a fun varied route that climbs like a chiminey in the flared dihedral. May 20, 2012
Dave Kos
Temecula, CA
5.7+
Dave Kos   Temecula, CA
5.7+
Fun little trad diversion with a very different character from the other climbs on this wall. A little stiff for a Holcomb 5.7 and probably not a good choice for a new 5.7 trad leader. Protection is a bit tricky, but it's all there - just bring some big cams and/or hexes. Useful to have something really big (bigger than #5 camalot) for the bottom section, otherwise the first opportunity for decent pro is about 15' up in a small crack on the right wall of the chimney. Aug 15, 2011