Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: previously toproped, possibly led
Page Views: 1,523 total · 10/month
Shared By: Rob Dillon on May 19, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

What were we just talking about?

This is the junior-sized line cowering beneath monumental neighbors Sinestra and Meat Hooks. Worm up a left-facing OW flake until it necks down through fists to less-than-hands and arches over to the left; at this point avail yourself of the adjacent fingercrack and crank up to the anchors.

This route had some chalk on it, as it can be TR'ed from the Sinestra anchor, as well as a baby-angle scar up in the fingers section. We figured it deserved an independent anchor and a name. Like Laura said, "as soon as you get tired of one size, it changes". In a neighborhood of single-minded endurance climbs, the moniker of ADD seemed apt.

The skinny-crack direct is topropable (for us); it's about 11+ and purple TCU-sized through the biz. The block doesn't move, much.

Where is this thing?

Just right of Sinestra.

The remnants of what may be the Creek's shortest-lived plaque may be found atop the 6' high starting pillar: ^ DD 0+

Gizmos

One each from #4 camalot on down to fingers; you'll probably want 2-3 yellow TCU-sized jobs, and perhaps (2)x 4.0 down low.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
I broke the plaque when the top 3' of the starting pillar came off when I started up this in last April, and the big block I pulled off smashed the plaque. I felt really bad about it, and took a ground fall in the process, but fortunately the big block didn't land on me! Oct 18, 2007
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
Dude you totally should have protected the plaque by placing your body between the pillar and the plaque. Bones grow back, plaques don't....... :) Mar 16, 2009
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
from the anchors to the start of the splitter can be stemmed bolts would be needed to make this happen but i have linked this 3 for 3 in all kinds of conditions hot, cold, im thinking of bolting this section ... what do the masses think , an adding its own anchor . 3 bolts at the most .. DF ...... Edited 11/2015 the bolts have sprouted!!! With its own anchor!!! Shit yea!!! Thanks to the creek folks who made this happen ... Has it been sent yet? Cuz I'm hot for teacher!!! Jul 21, 2013
Rob Dillon
  5.10+
Rob Dillon  
  5.10+
Go for it. Jan 26, 2014
DF, did you send? What does it go at? May 5, 2017
Rob Dillon
  5.10+
Rob Dillon  
  5.10+
Talk to Luke Stefurak. I happened to be at the O. M. a couple seasons back and he was toproping it. 'Hard but doable' I think was his take. I believe the bolts are his. May 7, 2017