Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Robert Warren
Page Views: 2,170 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Jan 12, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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34 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This long varied line haphazardly splits the face to the right of Meat Hooks, a short walk left of where the approach trails meets the Orginal Meat. The 'splitter' crack widens through several pods and offers variation in sizes from the bottom to the top. Keep gear of all sizes at the ready from beginning to end. Akward climbing through the pods sends you straight into difficult thin hands climbing. Use runners to minimize the rope drag on this long and not so straight splitter. Stiff for the grade, but a good line with lots of quality climbing.

Protection

I suggest more than others (Bloom): 1x1.0 2x1.5 3x2.0 7x2.5 4x3.0 3x3.5 2x4.0 and runners / long draws.

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Brian Weinstein
  5.11-
Brian Weinstein  
  5.11-
this thing was well worth doing, although not the best warm-up. bring extra .75 camalots. Nov 29, 2008
Devan Johnson
Foco
  5.11
Devan Johnson   Foco
  5.11
maybe two thirds up it pinches down to green cam for 10-15ft, other than that nice hands are found throughout. Textbook 5.11.... Oct 11, 2010
Leif  
this route broke my front tooth. harder than Sinestra. Oct 31, 2011
Kelsey Sheely
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11
Kelsey Sheely   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11
This route is definitely a little sandbagged, and that's not just because it stole my gold link cam. Awkward thin hands throughout, that is when it's not ring locks or offwidth. Bloom's suggestions are a little off for protection. In camalot sizes, I'd suggest 1-2 .5s, 3-5 .75s, 6-8 1s, 2-3 2s, 1-2 3s, 1-2 3.5s or 4s. Feb 27, 2012
303scott
5.11
303scott  
5.11
as others have indicated, definitely harder than sinestra Dec 28, 2016