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Routes in Original Meat Wall

A.D.D. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chopping Block T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flare Mignon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hand Prints T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hydroponic Pork T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Ladies First T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Meat Hooks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pull Left T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Reaper Wears Pink, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Arm T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sickle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sinestra T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Streets of Delhi, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tofu Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 10- (wide R facing flake) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wee Doggie T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,122 total, 32/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Apr 3, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A few hundred yards to the left of Sinestra in a large, left-facing corner with thin seams on the left wall. Beautiful handjamming in a varnished corner. Enjoy the many face holds for your feet on the left wall, or just ignore them and motor up the crack.

One 60m rope was just barely too short for the rappel. A 70m rope would be perfect.

Great hands in a corner. Start by climbing on top of the broken pillar/ledge and then into great sustained hands in the corner with stemming and jamming possible between the corner and the small splitter on the face to the left.

Protection

Mostly #2.5 Friends.

Several gold Camalots, a couple reds and the book says blue Camalots but you can get by without.

Location

A minute or two walk left from Sinestra, where the cliffband turns to a more southern aspect for a bit. This is the next route left of Pull Left.

Climbs the hand crack in the left-facing corner with another, smaller splitter on the face to the left. Starts above a broken pillar/ledge.
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
You can also supplement protection with some .5 Camalots in the left-hand crack (sling em out).

I didn't find the size to become baggy golds til the top. The last 20-30 feet was also the crux for me, although the start is no give-away either. Mar 18, 2014
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.10
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
  5.10
You're right, the 2nd edition was pretty much spot on, suggesting 2 2.0 Friends, 5 2.5's, 2 3's and 2 3.5's. The new Camalot edition isn't even close. Apr 8, 2013
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
The gear given by the Bloom guidebook (camalot edition) is very wrong. It says to bring several .75 & 1 camalots and only a few 2's. Bring a .75 and 1 for the beginning, a possible 4 camalot for the pod (depending on your comfort level), 1-2 blue camalots and the rest is all yellow. Apr 7, 2013
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.10b/c
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.10b/c
Climbed this route last Oct 9th, great route, seems easier than the grade considering the rail for the left foot. We never set any BD 3, the pods would allow BD 3 or 4 though. Crux was leaving the lower block trying to get the 1 pc high enough to eliminate any rope drag Oct 11, 2010
Cody Ferguson
Durango, CO
 
Cody Ferguson   Durango, CO
 
Classic Indian Creek! Lot's of BD #2s (6 I think). Apr 11, 2010
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
This route is called The Sickle in the new guide. Mar 24, 2010
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.10
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
  5.10
Great route, gotta be one of the best 10's at the Creek. Mar 24, 2010
Timmamok Murphy
Durango, CO
 
Timmamok Murphy   Durango, CO
 
It was so much cooler without the name. Oct 1, 2009
canyonclimber
Casper WY
canyonclimber   Casper WY
This is now called "The Sickle" in Bloom"s new guide. Great climb! I used only one #3 near the top and #2's for the rest of the hands section Aug 15, 2009
Rob Duncan
Salt Lake City
Rob Duncan   Salt Lake City
It just shows you how common perfect-hand-crack-dihedrals are at the creek- this is one of the finest and doesn't have a name! Sep 9, 2008
tenesmus  
 
I wanted another #3 camalot or two than Bloom's recommendation (for the ending). Really fun climbing. Just use a 70. Nov 17, 2007
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10c
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10c
An excellent crack! Climb to the top of the boulder for a comfortable belay and also so you can use a single 60 meter rope. The majority of the route was great hands and the cracks to the left provided plenty of rests along the way. Jul 17, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10
AWESOME route. Soft for the grade for IC. Begin with a short section of thin hands (#0.75-#1 camelot) to a nice rest. A pod is easily passed with face features. Then enjoy 80+ feet of cruising on perfect hands with a nice stem rest every 5-10 feet. The crack gradually goes from tight #2 camelots to tight #3 camelots the whole way. Enjoy the plentiful rests. A #4 camelot might be useful in the first pod, but the climbing is easy. Mar 30, 2007
Rob Dillon  
 
Maybe 100 yards left of Sinestra, tops. If you hit a plaqued flare called 'Mad Cow Disease' then you just walked past it. Feb 25, 2007
I think you can TR this route with a 60 m if you belay on top of the big boulder at the start. A little bit of a pain to downclimb from there but not hard. Aug 13, 2003