Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,406 total · 17/month
Shared By: Bryan Gall on Sep 14, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

On the far, far right of the Original Meat Wall, before a forming inset arch, you will find a zig-zaging vertical splitter hand crack that turns into a less than vertical thin hands left facing dihedral. Killer moderate climb that gives a friendly thin hands section if your looking to break into that size.

Protection

1BD #.75's, 3-4BD #1's, 2-3BD #2's, 1-2BD #3's It used to sport a one bolt & a fixed hex anchor, but I've been told it was upgraded.

Photos

Bryan Gall
New Castle, CO
  5.10-
Bryan Gall   New Castle, CO
  5.10-
There is a two bolt anchor. Oct 13, 2003
Two bolt anchor with bail biners, no rings. Placed high enough to be just out of reach from the obvious stance at the end of the route. (why?) Could use some chains and/or rings. Fun route, though. Apr 5, 2010
Kevin Gillest
Winter Park CO
  5.10a/b
Kevin Gillest   Winter Park CO
  5.10a/b
My opinion of why the anchors are set so far back, they make nearly no contact with the bulge at the top out, causing zero damage to the rock. Take a look at the anchors on "Flakes of Wrath" on Wall Street in Moab.


Apr 19, 2012
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
I disagree. At issue is where people place their protection as that pulls the rope under the roof. Also, in this rock, you can't just place an anchor anywhere. Large flakes break off on Potash and the bulge is in a large flake. Apr 19, 2012
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
 
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
 
Cleaned a snarl of old tat at the anchor. If I beat you to it next time it'll have new chains rather than decomposing nylon at the anchor. For now, slings to quick links off the bolts.

Fun route, first of the day, pretty much a wake up right off the ground, then cruiser. Apr 9, 2014
Joe M
SLC, UT
  5.10-
Joe M   SLC, UT
  5.10-
Protected the start with a BD #0.5 and 0.75. After that it is a cruiser. Apr 7, 2015