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Routes in Original Meat Wall

A.D.D. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chopping Block T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flare Mignon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hand Prints T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hydroponic Pork T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Ladies First T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Meat Hooks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pull Left T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Reaper Wears Pink, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Arm T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sickle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sinestra T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Streets of Delhi, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tofu Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 10- (wide R facing flake) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wee Doggie T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,696 total, 15/month
Shared By: Bryan Gall on Sep 14, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


74 Opinions

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

On the far, far right of the Original Meat Wall, before a forming inset arch, you will find a zig-zaging vertical splitter hand crack that turns into a less than vertical thin hands left facing dihedral. Killer moderate climb that gives a friendly thin hands section if your looking to break into that size.

Protection

1BD #.75's, 3-4BD #1's, 2-3BD #2's, 1-2BD #3's It used to sport a one bolt & a fixed hex anchor, but I've been told it was upgraded.
jomey
Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.10-
jomey   Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.10-
Protected the start with a BD #0.5 and 0.75. After that it is a cruiser. Apr 7, 2015
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
 
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
 
Cleaned a snarl of old tat at the anchor. If I beat you to it next time it'll have new chains rather than decomposing nylon at the anchor. For now, slings to quick links off the bolts.

Fun route, first of the day, pretty much a wake up right off the ground, then cruiser. Apr 9, 2014
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
I disagree. At issue is where people place their protection as that pulls the rope under the roof. Also, in this rock, you can't just place an anchor anywhere. Large flakes break off on Potash and the bulge is in a large flake. Apr 19, 2012
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.10a/b
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.10a/b
My opinion of why the anchors are set so far back, they make nearly no contact with the bulge at the top out, causing zero damage to the rock. Take a look at the anchors on "Flakes of Wrath" on Wall Street in Moab.


Apr 19, 2012
Two bolt anchor with bail biners, no rings. Placed high enough to be just out of reach from the obvious stance at the end of the route. (why?) Could use some chains and/or rings. Fun route, though. Apr 5, 2010
Bryan Gall
New Castle, CO
 
Bryan Gall   New Castle, CO
 
There is a two bolt anchor. Oct 13, 2003