Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,037 total · 11/month
Shared By: Rich Farnham on Mar 21, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is at the top of the approach trail and is distinguished by the varnished left-facing corner that makes up most of the route, but doesn't reach the ground. The start is fifteen feet of technical face-climbing along a seam with occasional pods for gear and finger-locks. The rock is pretty good, the moves are very interesting, and placing the gear is kind of pumpy. There's a good rest on a sloping ledge at the base of the corner. The corner goes from big fingers (Red Alien-ish) to a Red Camalot in about 40 feet, to a no hands rest, before pulling a bulge on 3 Friends. Finish up the corner in hands to big hands, and the all-too-typical grovel up a low angle slot for a move or two to reach the chains. I do not think it is worth bringing an OW piece for this final section. It is short and easy.An enjoyable route that would get more stars if it were longer or more sustained.

Protection

One of the few routes at Indian Creek that needs a few stoppers. The start takes a small to medium nut or two. I also used some medium Aliens down low, to a 3 Camalot up high and everything in between as the crack gets slowly wider.

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