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The Reaper Wears Pink
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.9 from 33
votes
Routes in Original Meat Wall
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A.D.D. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Chopping Block T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Flare Mignon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hand Prints T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hydroponic Pork T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Ladies First T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Meat Hooks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pull Left T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Reaper Wears Pink, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Right Arm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sickle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sinestra T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Streets of Delhi, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tofu Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown 10- (wide R facing flake) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wee Doggie T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 38.13809, -109.58571 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,811 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Rich Farnham on Mar 21, 2005 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This route is at the top of the approach trail and is distinguished by the varnished left-facing corner that makes up most of the route, but doesn't reach the ground. The start is fifteen feet of technical face-climbing along a seam with occasional pods for gear and finger-locks. The rock is pretty good, the moves are very interesting, and placing the gear is kind of pumpy. There's a good rest on a sloping ledge at the base of the corner. The corner goes from big fingers (Red Alien-ish) to a Red Camalot in about 40 feet, to a no hands rest, before pulling a bulge on 3 Friends. Finish up the corner in hands to big hands, and the all-too-typical grovel up a low angle slot for a move or two to reach the chains. I do not think it is worth bringing an OW piece for this final section. It is short and easy.An enjoyable route that would get more stars if it were longer or more sustained.
3 Comments