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Routes in Original Meat Wall

A.D.D. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chopping Block T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flare Mignon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hand Prints T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hydroponic Pork T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Ladies First T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Meat Hooks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pull Left T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Reaper Wears Pink, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Arm T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sickle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sinestra T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Streets of Delhi, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tofu Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 10- (wide R facing flake) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wee Doggie T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Robert Warren
Page Views: 3,933 total · 22/month
Shared By: Bryan Gall on Oct 11, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A stunning line located between "Right Arm" and "Sinestra", Meat Hooks is one of the most continuous fist corners I've had the pleasure to climb. It is protected by a hell of a lot of #3.5 camalots, #3's are tipped out! Start up through a short off width section (40'), crank through 130' of fists, pull a roof (the only spot #3's work well), and grab the chains. You most definitely need two ropes. A must do wide crack experience!!!

Protection

1-2bd #2's, 4-5bd #3's, 8-10bd #3.5's, 2-3bd #4's, and 1-2bd #4.5's

Photos

Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10+
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10+
All this blah blah blah about 3s or 3.5s or 4s??? Had me out searchen for more 3.5s. Walked around the campground trying to borrow 3.5s. Dude told me 3s and 4s were fine, so I tried with what I had. #3s were great for most of the pitch. 4s were very tight and kinda a pain to get in. #3.5s were good for a lot of it but tight for much. With all the big cams I was glad to protect the start with a few cams before things got real. An old 4 then a new 4 low then 3s or 3.5s most of the way with a 4 up higher then more 3s and finish with a new 5 if you want to drag it to the top, would have been nice up there but not sure I would drag it along. Awesome climb! May 5, 2017
When the guide book says wide hands it means it! I was using super cupped hands because my fists just wouldnt quite fit. I used lots of #3 camalots and 2# fours. Mar 20, 2016
Bowie Pearson
Portland, OR
  5.11
Bowie Pearson   Portland, OR
  5.11
Agree with Brandon above - lots of C4 #4 placements to be had. For me (a #1 hands gal), this was mostly fists/arm bars, but the feet are perfect the whole way and that roof at the top is amazing!!! Nov 30, 2015
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
hmmm, i wonder if the pillar has shifted some? the last time i did it, maybe 2010(?) you could get a #4 C4 in a slight pod about midway up (crushed in there and not very deep). also you could get a #4 up near the very top. the main dihedral was all super tight 3.5 camalot (4 friend), or really tipped out #3 camalots (3.5 friends).

super route, either way! Apr 10, 2014
Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
  5.10+
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
  5.10+
Contrary to what is written above, #4 C4s are a nice tight fit throughout the climb - I bumped one for a long way having only a couple other cams that fit. #4 friends are perfect but the #4 C4s fit for at least a 70' stretch of the climb. Mar 10, 2014
Ryan Kempf
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Ryan Kempf   Boulder, CO
  5.11-
If #1's are perfect hands than its a fist climb (noted in the description), otherwise it's a beautifuly long and strenuous off-hands corner. There are 2 sections that allow a new BD #4, I would take 2 of them. Oct 29, 2013
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
Nope. Nov 30, 2012
AndyBG  
How about #4 C4's? Close enough to the old BD 3.5's? Nov 30, 2012
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
they don't. you can barely get a #4 at one spot about midway up, and possibly 1 up around the roof at the top. you can use a bunch of really tipped out #3's along the way, but it is a lot better to have 3.5s/4friends. when my wife did it she had 9 pieces that size, which worked out about right. Dec 16, 2011
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
Who owns 10 BD #3.5s and will you meet me in IC (actually, I have one so you only need to bring nine)? How do BD #4s fit? Dec 16, 2011
Wayne Harney
  5.11a
Wayne Harney  
  5.11a
This climb is a full body belt sander! The flare at the bottom seemed 11ish to me. Jan 5, 2006
I wouldn't say this is a fist climb. Burly wide hands for me. I would bring only 1 4.5 and only one 4 camalots. Lots of 3.5 friends and then tight 4 friends. I had 6 size 4 friends and had to backclean a scary lot (had already blew the onsight down low) so get lots of 4's. Good chain anchor, thank you whoever did that, can't be seen from the ground. My 50m trail line barly touched down. True Indian Creek climb!A. Everhart Nov 30, 2003

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