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Routes in Main Wall

6-fingered Man, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
99 Red Balloons S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
As You Wish S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butler Route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Fire Swamp, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giant Killer, The S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Once Were Warriors S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pejos Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Planet of the Apes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prince Humperdink S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Princess Buttercup S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Crack Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Westley S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Scott Fitzgibbon and Walt Wehner, 6/98
Page Views: 1,480 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 4, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

The first bolted route right of the large chimney near the middle of the main wall. Fun face climbing with a steep finish on jugs. Using the arete on the left keeps the climb at 5.8. More challenging is not using the arete and making the route 5.9ish.

Location

Listed as route #8 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.

Protection

4 bolts to a two bolt anchor with carabiners. For the safety and convenience of everyone, please leave the carabiners in place and enjoy using them!
Sarah TevisTownes
Albuquerque, NM
 
Sarah TevisTownes   Albuquerque, NM
 
Fun any way you try it. Mar 14, 2016
Tom Johnson
Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe
 
Tom Johnson   Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe
 
My favorite route at Gallows. Go straight up at the top. It's well-protected and super fun. Jul 23, 2008
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.8-
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.8-
Nice climb. The roof will get a beginner's attention! It's possible to go around it to the left, but why would you rob yourself like that? =) Jul 2, 2007