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Routes in Main Wall

6-fingered Man, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
99 Red Balloons S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
As You Wish S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butler Route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Fire Swamp, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giant Killer, The S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Once Were Warriors S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pejos Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Planet of the Apes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prince Humperdink S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Princess Buttercup S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Crack Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Westley S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 32 ft
FA: ???-(3/98)
Page Views: 715 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 4, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A short but steeper face route between The Fire Swamp and Princess Buttercup. Follow the blunt, curving arete up a line of bolts to shared anchors with "The Fire Swamp". Seemingly more difficult than the rating suggests.

Location

Listed as route #6 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.

Protection

3 bolts to a two-bolt anchor

Photos

- No Photos -
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.7
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.7
Who brings tricams to Gallows Edge??? Besides you of course :) Mar 19, 2009
Devin Shunk
  5.8
Devin Shunk  
  5.8
Just a heads up. The second bolt on this route has some of the rock missing from underneath it, exposing several threads. Not too tough of a climb to just clip it and go, but if you want some pro, a few different tri-cams will do nicely in this area. Mar 16, 2009
Tom Johnson
Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe
 
Tom Johnson   Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe
 
I personally find this to be the hardest route (besides the .12) at Gallows edge. The sequence is not entirely obvious, and the steepness may get you a bit pumped if you're out of shape. Still, a pretty decent route. Jul 23, 2008
Devin Shunk
  5.8
Devin Shunk  
  5.8
Pretty nice route. For an interesting variation, stay to the left of the arete on the way up. Slightly overhung and more fun and a bit more challenging than the direct route, IMHO. Sep 19, 2007