Type: Sport, 32 ft
FA: ???-(3/98)
Page Views: 801 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 4, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

35 Opinions

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A short but steeper face route between The Fire Swamp and Princess Buttercup. Follow the blunt, curving arete up a line of bolts to shared anchors with "The Fire Swamp". Seemingly more difficult than the rating suggests.


Listed as route #6 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.


3 bolts to a two-bolt anchor


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Devin Shunk
Devin Shunk  
Pretty nice route. For an interesting variation, stay to the left of the arete on the way up. Slightly overhung and more fun and a bit more challenging than the direct route, IMHO. Sep 19, 2007
Tom Johnson
Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe
Tom Johnson   Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe
I personally find this to be the hardest route (besides the .12) at Gallows edge. The sequence is not entirely obvious, and the steepness may get you a bit pumped if you're out of shape. Still, a pretty decent route. Jul 23, 2008
Devin Shunk
Devin Shunk  
Just a heads up. The second bolt on this route has some of the rock missing from underneath it, exposing several threads. Not too tough of a climb to just clip it and go, but if you want some pro, a few different tri-cams will do nicely in this area. Mar 16, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
Who brings tricams to Gallows Edge??? Besides you of course :) Mar 19, 2009