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Elevation: 6,400 ft
GPS: 35.8178, -106.1873
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 62,616 total · 302/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 4, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

Description Suggest change

East facing basalt crag known for its short, moderate sport routes. This is often the place local aspiring sport climbers cut their teeth. Winter climbing is great here with the dark, east facing aspect receiving plenty of sun.
Gallows is comprised of three areas: The Main Wall, The Pit and The Upper Tier with most of the routes located on the Main Wall.
The routes are packed tightly and it can get quite crowded but the social scene is often friendly and fun.

The crag was discovered by Carlo Torres, Jon Butler, Lucas Laeser, and Mike Lyons, among others, and remained almost totally undeveloped until very recently. Most first ascents were done solo.

A very nice online PDF guide by Guido Bender can be downloaded from the Los Alamos Mountaineers website.

Getting There Suggest change

From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs. Follow the good climber's trail down to the third shelf. This is Gallows Edge.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gallows Edge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 65
The Giant Killer
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 77
Princess Buttercup
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 66
Pejos Route
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 72
R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size)
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 56
Planet of the Apes
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 75
The Fire Swamp
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 53
Westley
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 88
99 Red Balloons
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 69
Once Were Warriors
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 39
The Odor Takeda
Sport
Pit
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
The Thunderbird Crack
Trad
Pit
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
Dave And Crissa's Route
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 26
Fezzik (Andre the Giant)
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 31
Fay Drostenson
Sport
Pit
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 28
Gralisa Leen
Sport
Pit
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Giant Killer Main Wall
 65
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport
Princess Buttercup Main Wall
 77
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Pejos Route Main Wall
 66
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusua… Main Wall
 72
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Planet of the Apes Main Wall
 56
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Fire Swamp Main Wall
 75
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Westley Main Wall
 53
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
99 Red Balloons Main Wall
 88
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Once Were Warriors Main Wall
 69
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Odor Takeda Pit
 39
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Thunderbird Crack Pit
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Dave And Crissa's Route Upper Tier
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fezzik (Andre the Giant) Main Wall
 26
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fay Drostenson Pit
 31
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Gralisa Leen Pit
 28
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Gallows Edge »

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