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Areas in Gallows Edge

Main Wall 4 / 11 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Pit, The 3 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Upper Tier 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Description

East facing basalt crag known for its short, moderate sport routes. This is often the place local aspiring sport climbers cut their teeth. Winter climbing is great here with the dark, east facing aspect receiving plenty of sun.
Gallows is comprised of three areas: The Main Wall, The Pit and The Upper Tier with most of the routes located on the Main Wall.
The routes are packed tightly and it can get quite crowded but the social scene is often friendly and fun.

The crag was discovered by Carlo Torres, Jon Butler, Lucas Laeser, and Mike Lyons, among others, and remained almost totally undeveloped until very recently. Most first ascents were done solo.

A very nice online PDF guide by Guido Bender can be downloaded from the Los Alamos Mountaineers website.

Getting There

From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs. Follow the good climber's trail down to the third shelf. This is Gallows Edge.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gallows Edge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 53
Princess Buttercup
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 46
Pejos Route
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 48
R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size)
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 40
Planet of the Apes
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 49
The Fire Swamp
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 53
99 Red Balloons
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 44
Once Were Warriors
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
The Odor Takeda
Sport
Pit
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
As You Wish
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
The Thunderbird Crack
Trad
Pit
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Dave And Crissa's Route
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Fezzik (Andre the Giant)
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 24
Gralisa Leen
Sport
Pit
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Princess Buttercup Main Wall
 53
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Pejos Route Main Wall
 46
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusua… Main Wall
 48
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Planet of the Apes Main Wall
 40
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Fire Swamp Main Wall
 49
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
99 Red Balloons Main Wall
 53
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Once Were Warriors Main Wall
 44
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Odor Takeda Pit
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
As You Wish Main Wall
 27
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Thunderbird Crack Pit
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Dave And Crissa's Route Upper Tier
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fezzik (Andre the Giant) Main Wall
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Gralisa Leen Pit
 24
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Gallows Edge »

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Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
NOTE: Rust-colored steel (and some aluminum) carabiners were placed on the chains of all routes on the main wall of Gallows recently. PLEASE DON'T STEAL THESE! The carabiners make it safer and more convenient for everyone and extend the life of the chain anchors because the carabiners can be easily replaced while chains aren't as easy to replace. Apr 4, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
just a suggestion. on fixed biners around here, sometimes they're held in place with a little baling wire, or a nylon zip tie. Helps keep them correctly oriented, and also lets people (who might be clueless as to local fixed gear ethics) know that they're supposed to be there. Apr 4, 2007
C Miller   CA  
Good info about the bailing wire as it discourages the casual thief, but zip-ties are a bad idea as the plastic degrades over time and becomes trash. Apr 4, 2007
Wa3lt  
Anchor upgrades are much appreciated, guys - the chains I installed when I bolted most of these are close to 10 years old now, and from what I've heard, the routes are quite popular.

Unfortunately, the folks who are most likely to climb here are also the most likely to *really* want/need booty gear, or to just not know the score enough to not take them.

I'm glad to hear that folks are enjoying the Gallow's Edge. We certainly enjoyed putting up the routes! Jan 2, 2009
I lost a Merrell down jacket near Gallow's Edge last weekend (Sunday) and haven't been able to find it while searching the area. Anyone see it? It is dark green. Nov 3, 2011
Over the past year, in consultation with Jason Halladay and other FAs, I:

1) Placed an additional bolt on The Fire Swamp to protect against potential ground falls. It is the new 3rd bolt.

2) Placed steel biners (painted rust) at the top of The Fire Swamp. The biners are zip-tied to the chains to discourage removal.

3) Placed 22kn-rated chains, links, and steel biners (painted rust) at the top of ROUS. The biners are zip-tied to the chains to discourage removal.

4) Placed 22kn-rated chains and links (painted rust), and aluminum biners recycled from the tops of other GE routes at the top of Giant Killer. The biners are integrated with quick links and should be obvious that they are meant to stay there. Apr 18, 2013

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