Elevation: 6,400 ft
GPS: 35.818, -106.187 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 42,467 total · 258/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 4, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

East facing basalt crag known for its short, moderate sport routes. This is often the place local aspiring sport climbers cut their teeth. Winter climbing is great here with the dark, east facing aspect receiving plenty of sun.
Gallows is comprised of three areas: The Main Wall, The Pit and The Upper Tier with most of the routes located on the Main Wall.
The routes are packed tightly and it can get quite crowded but the social scene is often friendly and fun.

The crag was discovered by Carlo Torres, Jon Butler, Lucas Laeser, and Mike Lyons, among others, and remained almost totally undeveloped until very recently. Most first ascents were done solo.

A very nice online PDF guide by Guido Bender can be downloaded from the Los Alamos Mountaineers website.

Getting There

From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs. Follow the good climber's trail down to the third shelf. This is Gallows Edge.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gallows Edge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 62
Princess Buttercup
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 53
Pejos Route
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 56
R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size)
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 46
Planet of the Apes
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 60
The Fire Swamp
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 67
99 Red Balloons
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 53
Once Were Warriors
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 31
The Odor Takeda
Sport
Pit
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
The Thunderbird Crack
Trad
Pit
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
Dave And Crissa's Route
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Fezzik (Andre the Giant)
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 26
Gralisa Leen
Sport
Pit
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Princess Buttercup Main Wall
 62
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Pejos Route Main Wall
 53
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusua… Main Wall
 56
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Planet of the Apes Main Wall
 46
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Fire Swamp Main Wall
 60
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
99 Red Balloons Main Wall
 67
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Once Were Warriors Main Wall
 53
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Odor Takeda Pit
 31
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Thunderbird Crack Pit
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Dave And Crissa's Route Upper Tier
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fezzik (Andre the Giant) Main Wall
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Gralisa Leen Pit
 26
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Gallows Edge »

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