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Routes in Main Wall

6-fingered Man, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
99 Red Balloons S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
As You Wish S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butler Route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Fire Swamp, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giant Killer, The S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Once Were Warriors S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pejos Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Planet of the Apes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prince Humperdink S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Princess Buttercup S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Crack Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Westley S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: [[105875148]] & [[14595]], August 2008
Page Views: 1,583 total, 14/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Aug 6, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

R.O.U.S. is a clean face route on really good rock with a bit of thin face climbing before a small roof move near the top. Make some easy scrambling moves up six feet to a comfy stance, solid hand jam and the first bolt. Face climb on small holds through the crux of the route between bolts 2 and 3 using small pockets and edges past a couple more bolts up to a small ledge and small roof. It is here, under the roof, that R.O.U.S.es may be hiding. Move quickly! The well-protected mini-roof move is another crux to a super large ledge and the anchor.

Rodents Of Unusual Size (ROUS) reside in the Fire Swamp and attacked Princess Buttercup and her companion Westley when they bravely entered the Fire Swamp. If you're not familiar with R.O.U.S.es watch a short segment from the movie The Princess Bride. At about 6:13 minutes into the segment the R.O.U.S.es appear.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKxo5y8UMs8

Location

This route ascends the clean face to the right of Princess Buttercup.

Protection

A generously protected route that would make for a good first sport lead. 6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor equipped with carabiners. The left steel biner (with red gate) was installed on 1/30/11.

Photos

Asa King
Salt Lake City, Ut
 
Asa King   Salt Lake City, Ut
 
The rodents are gone again. Nov 8, 2010
Arthur Sullivan
Albuquerque,NM
Arthur Sullivan   Albuquerque,NM
The rodents are back. Not a good climb to take your gal up on the first date. Apr 9, 2010
scotthsu
Los Alamos, NM
  5.7
scotthsu   Los Alamos, NM
  5.7
We didn't see any ROUS today! They either left for more fertile routes, or somebody absconded with them. Jun 27, 2009
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.7
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.7
The R.O.U.S. may scare some...beware!!! Fun route and a great addition to Gallow's. Thanks Hallafritz (or Fritzaday if you prefer) Feb 21, 2009
scotthsu
Los Alamos, NM
  5.7
scotthsu   Los Alamos, NM
  5.7
Fun climb. Thanks Jason and Allison for putting up the line! I did in fact encounter a ROUS, which I thought increased the difficulty of the route to at least 5.7+. Oct 19, 2008
Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.7
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.7
Fun route up small edges and pockets. Very well protected. For me the crux might have been the roof but it's a close race between that and some of the thin face moves down lower. Aug 11, 2008