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Routes in Main Wall

6-fingered Man, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
99 Red Balloons S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
As You Wish S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butler Route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Fire Swamp, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giant Killer, The S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Once Were Warriors S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pejos Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Planet of the Apes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prince Humperdink S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Princess Buttercup S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Crack Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Westley S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Matthias Graf and Lee Steck
Page Views: 1,259 total, 13/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Aug 29, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

(This description was written by Matthias Graf--I have not climbed the route.)

This is a steep face route with some shark-mouthed pockets. The 5.10a crux is moving beyond the 2nd bolt. Gain a ledge below the third bolt. A forth bolt protects the face to the left of the arete with friendly ledges to the anchors. There is an easier variation by climbing further left of the bolt line and a harder variation just right of the bolt line.

It seems the 5.10a rating is a bit of a joke and poke at the overall over-rating of other routes at Gallows.

Location

This route is located directly to the right of the Unknown Crack Route or 10 feet right of Planet of the Apes. It starts on the upper talus table by scrambling up the blocks right of Planet of the Apes.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt chained anchor with quick links. I suspect the anchors for this route would serve useful for those climbing the unknown crack route to the left of this line.

Photos

Andrew B. Ellis
  5.10a
Andrew B. Ellis  
  5.10a
Good, enjoyable route. It may be short and sweet, but I feel that the brief crux is a few solid 10a moves. Eases up after that. May 24, 2017
Devin Shunk
  5.9-
Devin Shunk  
  5.9-
Fun route. I am not sure about the 10 rating. If you follow the bolt line, this is a straightforward climb. It is a stretch to even call it a 9 in my mind. As the description states, if you climb over to the right of the bolts (almost out of arms reach of them), the climbing is much harder. Sep 22, 2009