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Prince Humperdink
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 1.4 from 20
votes
Routes in Main Wall
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6-fingered Man, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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99 Red Balloons S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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As You Wish S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Butler Route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Fezzik (Andre the Giant) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fire Swamp, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gallows' Girdle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Giant Killer, The S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Once Were Warriors S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pejos Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Planet of the Apes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Prince Humperdink S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Princess Buttercup S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown Crack Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Westley S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 32 ft (10 m) |
| FA: | Carlo Torres - (3/98) |
| Page Views: | 2,000 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Apr 4, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
The hardest route at Gallows Edge. Stick-clip the high first bolt and work your way through short, steep and powerful moves through a series of two-finger pockets near the arete to a huge jug below the very high first bolt. Using the arete on the right apparently makes it a bit easier (5.11-ish) but seems natural and arguably more fun. A few more steep moves lead to the second bolt before the angle backs off past the third bolt to the anchors for The Fire Swamp.
Protection
3 bolts, shares an anchor with The Fire Swamp. The first bolt is way up there and the crux moves come before it so using a stick clip is highly recommended.
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