Type: Sport
FA: Bill Leventhal, Matt Oliphant, Mike Draper
Page Views: 9,176 total · 64/month
Shared By: Art Morimitsu on Mar 2, 2007
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


182 Opinions

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Description

Good holds on less than vertical face leading to a steeper section

Location

On the next boulder, on the opposite side of X-files, or on the face left of Chopping Block, second route to the right of the arete

Protection

5 bolts anchors

Photos

Ryan Kelly
work.
 
Ryan Kelly   work.
 
It's not really on the same boulder as Nipple Denial, it's on the next one, on the opposite side of X-files, or on the face left of Chopping Block. Sep 20, 2007
Nicole BI
Oakland, CA
  5.10a
Nicole BI   Oakland, CA
  5.10a
If I am remembering correctly, this is the third route from the left of the four on this face. To the right of Third Degree and to the left of Moonshiner. At least, I think that's right. May 13, 2010
Dean Olson
  5.9+
Dean Olson  
  5.9+
Immediately to the left of Moonshiner. Crux is getting to the shuts. Very vertical and poor hands/feet Sep 19, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10a
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10a
Very vertical? Gorilla Drilla is beyond vertical above the last bolt. In fact, your feet don't touch the wall when lowering for the 1st 15 feet, due to the steep upper portion. There was an interesting story by Nicki Dyal in Rock & Ice regarding the origin of the name and the FA. May 11, 2013
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
The anchors were replaced this morning per Bill L's specifications with Fixe single-ring hangers.
Also tightened two other bolts on the route. Jan 26, 2014
NashSF  
MisterE -
Why were the two bolt anchors replaced with a single bolt anchor? Also, some other bolts seemed new and none were camouflaged. Any info on this? Jan 24, 2015
Trevor Mathews
Upland, CA
 
Trevor Mathews   Upland, CA
 
I was there yesterday, Jan 31, and there was just one bolt at the top. I would suggest using another routes anchors and adding a directional to top rope this route. Feb 2, 2015
Matt Himmelstein
Orange, California
 
Matt Himmelstein   Orange, California
 
There is a 2 bolt anchor up top May 23, 2016
Two bolt anchor at top. Nice. Jun 26, 2017
Definitely two bolts at the top when I climbed it. Sep 4, 2017
Adam Shahbaz  
 
10a in Malibu terms. Solid lead warm up with a decent cruxy move nearing the top. Set up a TR and it's fun for the whole fam. Feb 12, 2018
Mussyhooks have been added as anchors as of July 2018 Jul 16, 2018