Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: 2005
Page Views: 4,865 total · 44/month
Shared By: James Ging on Oct 28, 2009 with updates from Jonathan Lam
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Clean, easy climbing, good warmup or first lead. Nice and shaded, with only afternoon sun. Not quite vertical with the classic malibu pockets. Be aware that this climb shares an anchor with Chips Ahoy (to the left).


Route starts across from Guerrilla Drilla on the ledge. Obvious first bolt and less than vertical wall mark the spot.


5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. As the route starts on a ledge, you really don't want to fall before the first bolt.


Reseda, CA
Levy   Reseda, CA
This is the easiest lead at Malibu Creek S.P. It is only about 5.3. Fine for beginners & new leaders, it can easily be climbed in regular shoes. Nov 25, 2009
Ryan Kelly
Ryan Kelly   work.
Putting new climbers on a route this chossy is just plain mean for the belayer. I'd wear football pads and a full helmet if I were you. Dec 3, 2009
Where is this route? Any photos anywhere? I'm looking for an easy first lead route and this sounds pretty good. I know where Chopping Block is. Where is this route from Chopping Block? Thanks... John May 2, 2011
Clay Zamperini
Tarzana, CA
Clay Zamperini   Tarzana, CA
John, I don't know where it is relative to chopping block (only climbed malibu once, and didn't have a guidebook), but if you're in the Stumbling Blocks area, head east past all the 5.10/5.11 climbs (back towards the trail) and there's a big slabby wall that borders the creek. You belay from a cliffside area with a big oak tree growing out of it. Can't miss it.

Definitely a good first lead, really easy, but since it's kind of exposed you really don't want to miss the first bolt and tumble off the cliff (you're belaying 20-30 feet above the creek floor).

Hope this helps. May 6, 2011
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
It may have been chossy at one time, but has cleaned up nicely. A good beginner lead. Aug 23, 2011
Brent Kelly
  5.6 PG13
Brent Kelly  
  5.6 PG13
The route is on your left as you scramble up into the pseduo-canyon. Scramble up an exposed (30 ft tumble if you slip) mini-ledge to the first bolt. The route starts directly up from the right edge gulley of the belay ledge.

Pretty easy and decently fun BUT you definitely want to be attentive on this route.

I knocked off two baseball sized pieces of choss on a casual lead, narrowly missing my belayer. One actually hit her foot. Be attentive. Dec 30, 2011
Brent Kelly
  5.6 PG13
Brent Kelly  
  5.6 PG13
Also, catches afternoon sun about halfway up.

Looked like a nice ledge above the chains. Would be fun to belay from above and have lunch. Great view. Dec 30, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Agree with Levy regarding the suitability of approach shoes for leading "Monkey Mayhem," but the rating is closer to 5.5 Jun 22, 2013
Clairemont Mesa, CA
atp   Clairemont Mesa, CA
Enjoyable climb. Had a new-to-climbing friend do their first lead on this route, it has good clipping stances and a nice view at the top. May 27, 2014
Mike N.
San Diego, CA
Mike N.   San Diego, CA
I climbed this on 10/24/2014, and the anchor biners at the top look to be worn about halfway through. If you're going to top rope on this, probably best to use your own anchor draws. Oct 27, 2014
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
ANCHOR UPDATE: Those very worn out anchor biners are still there but now there are massive gated hooks on the ends of the chains. Very easy but interesting climb. Found one loose fist sized rock about two thirds of the way up but couldn't dislodge it. Also definitely don't miss the first bolt or you'll probably fall off the ledge another 20 feet down, but it's extremely easy climbing. The top gives one of the best views as it has the highest elevation. May 6, 2016
Christian .
West Hills, CA
Christian .   West Hills, CA
The down climb was a little sketch after I solo'd to the top, but wasn't hard. Easy route that has nice views. Just be smart when it comes to picking foot and hand holds. Nov 24, 2016