Type: Sport
FA: Bill Leventhal, Matt Oliphant, Mike Draper
Page Views: 5,643 total · 39/month
Shared By: Art Morimitsu on Feb 21, 2007
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


66 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Shares the start with Nipple Denial Syndrome, climb left up the overhanging face on pockets to reach the "letterbox" pull over onto less than vertical face.

Location

Protection

Bolts Anchor

Photos

KraigP  
This is an awesome route. Tough first section to the lip. Get over the lip for a rest and work up to the bolts. I really enjoyed this and can't wait to go back and actually lead it. Nov 17, 2008
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
The anchors for this route at the top are sketchy. Its one open shut hook and one biner. The biner is worn down dangerously thin. Nov 26, 2009
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.11-
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.11-
I just did it today and I didn't think the biner was all that bad; it doesn't close all that well, but it wasn't worn terribly. The open shut is solid. Dec 5, 2009
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
The anchors are nice new closed shuts, but both nuts on the bolts were really loose. I hand tightened then, but they need some locktight or something. Jun 17, 2012
Daniel Vakili
Los Angeles, CA
Daniel Vakili   Los Angeles, CA
SIT START!!!!! it's awesome Oct 5, 2015
Disaster Franklin
Los Angeles, CA
 
Disaster Franklin   Los Angeles, CA
 
stepping over that lip put me in a cold sweat. One of the top 5 malibu routes, seems to be easier than nipple denial syndrome to the right. Oct 13, 2015
Cameron Wu
Culver City, CA
  5.11c
Cameron Wu   Culver City, CA
  5.11c
Fun, beta-intensive climb. Did the sit start variation through a pumpy overhang with three bolts. Big move to pull through the lip and clip the fourth bolt. Finish on slightly less than vertical pockets and jugs. Anchor is two closed shuts. Watch out for falls above the last bolt before the anchors, as there is a large tree branch that is precariously close to the top of the climb. May 28, 2017