Type: Sport
FA: Bill Leventhal, Matt Oliphant, Mike Draper, 1997
Page Views: 16,742 total · 121/month
Shared By: Jon McCartie on Sep 10, 2007
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


163 Opinions

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Description

start from small block with first bolt within reach. move up and slightly left, then cruise right and then straight up. avoid moving too far left towads the arete (this is another route)

Location

west-facing, start from small block. around to the right of Guerilla Drilla.

Protection

8 bolts, anchor (1 fixed biner, 1 open shut)

Photos

Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.8
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.8
First Ascent: Bill Leventhal, Matt Oliphant, Mike Draper, 1997. From Louie Anderson's book: Sport Climbing in the Santa Monica Mountains. Jan 26, 2009
S L
S L  
As of 9/14/12 there are no longer any cold shuts at the top. There are two rap rings. Sep 16, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.8
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.8
You have to love those new anchors. Many thanks to the individual that shelled out the $$ for the hardware. Jun 22, 2013
Jeffrey Lieberman
  5.9- PG13
Jeffrey Lieberman  
  5.9- PG13
Great route...one that we do often to start...then journey to the left knocking them off (routes) one at a time. BETA:on the start try and stay on the prow direct to the sidepull rather than go out to lower angle rock to the left. Mar 17, 2014
Mtnfly
El Segundo, Ca
  5.8
Mtnfly   El Segundo, Ca
  5.8
Between the second and third bolt I leaned out left, around the arĂȘte, to keep it at the rating (5.8). Straight up the Bolt lined seemed more stiff. Do to go to far left though because you'll be on bother route. There are anchors every 10 feet on this section of rock so it's sort of hard to tell where your are supposed to be on any given route. That said......shade is great and work left for a fun day of moderates Aug 1, 2014
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
  5.8
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
  5.8
On sight as my first route for my first time to Malibu. Sometimes it's hard to find the 'right' hold on other routes, but this route is pretty straight forward with bunches of easy pockets. May 6, 2016
Adam Shahbaz
  5.8
Adam Shahbaz  
  5.8
Low crux makes this a great mental warm-up, or a bounce-back. Juggy holds. Pockets-a-plenty. Was belaying my lady who took a huge whipper on Guerilla Drilla the week before and this helped get her head back in the game.

Gets a little slabby up top, *slightly* run out between bolts 3 and 4. As others have said, stay on the right side of the face unless you want to creep on the 5.9 next door. Oct 10, 2017