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Routes in The Thaiwand

20 Kilos of Steel S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Caveman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Circus Oz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Equatorial S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fit To Be Thai'd S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Getting to Know You S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Inaka (The Country) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
King, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Live and Let Thai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lord of the Thai's S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mala Mujer S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monkey Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Organ Grinder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out of Sticks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Primal Scream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sluggard Prince, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Solution 41 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Spicy Speck Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taming the East S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: trevor massiah and greg collum
Page Views: 2,195 total · 15/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Feb 28, 2007
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route

22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details


This is the line that runs to the right of live and let thai, and left of Organ grinder. There is one bolt just off the ground protecting a challenging start move, then slightly run out on very easy ground to the second bolt. Wander your way up the grey rock on both sides of the blunt arete, and reach the anchor 35m up in a cave. fabulous climbing, with plenty of rest stances.


see description. We BARELY got down with a 60m rope that I think is cut a little long, with lots of stretch. I had to chain 10 feet worth of draws together to hold the rope on the ground, so my partner could tr it. dicey. A 70m would be great, you can barely lower off w/stretch on a 60(tie knot!!) or you can do an intermediate rap.


14 or so draws.


Notes I had scribbled in my guide:

"Wow! Steep, long arete. Spectacular!"

You will want a 70M rope on this. Apr 12, 2007
Clayton Rardon
Yucca Valley, CA
Clayton Rardon   Yucca Valley, CA
One of the best routes, not to be missed. several difficult moves spread out over 35m. Dec 28, 2007
In the King Climber Book they have it as a 10D. I agree with the rating as none of the moves felt 11ish to me. Best part is that none of the moves are reachy at all (I'm 5ft 5in w/-3 ape index) . There were no one crux per se but a series of bulges that that the climber have to figure out how to pull. Super, super fun and I found it to be really enjoyable cruise. Nov 17, 2011
twellman   Cambridge
Awesome, long, pumpy route. Felt like solid 11b to me, the pump sneaks up on you! Feb 26, 2017
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
Awesome route! I think earns the 11b compared to other routes on this wall. Multiple fun cruxes. Feb 15, 2018

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