Type: Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Sam Lightner, Greg Collum, Larissa Collum , and a host of helpers
Page Views: 15,636 total · 75/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Dec 20, 2006
Admins: Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is the best climb on the best wall in Thailand, and I have had many a climber tell me it was the best route they ever did. Enjoy.

P1: Start just right of the cave rappels and go up 80 feet to a ledge and anchor. (5.10b)

P2: Go up and through a bulge then some strenuous moves that put on a good pump. Work left to the left side of the large ledge. (5.11d)

P3: Go straight up from the belay to a bulge, then "brachiate" out it like a gibbon to wildly exposed finish. Fall off and you might need new shorts. (5.12a)

P4: The crux. First go up and through some hard bouldering moves, then traverse right to a steep headwall that is very pumpy. Finish at a stance. (5.12b)

From the stance, a few long moves take you up and left onto the arete, then left more to the cave and the rappels. (5.10d)

Location Suggest change

Up the center of the north face of the Thaiwand

Protection Suggest change

A dozen quickdraws and two ropes to get down. The bolts should be good now, as it's been redone 3 times.