Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Lord of the Thai's
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.8 from 58
votes
Routes in The Thaiwand
|
|
20 Kilos of Steel S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Another Unnamed 6b S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Caveman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Circus Oz S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Equatorial S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Fit To Be Thai'd S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Getting to Know You S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Inaka (The Country) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
King and I (First Pitch) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
King, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Live and Let Thai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Lord of the Thai's S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Mala Mujer S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Monkey Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Organ Grinder S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Out of Sticks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Primal Scream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Sluggard Prince, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Solution 41 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Spicy Speck Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Taming the East S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Unnamed 5 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Unnamed 6a+ S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Unnamed 6b S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 8.00863, 98.8357 |
| FA: | Sam Lightner, Greg Collum, Larissa Collum , and a host of helpers |
| Page Views: | 16,343 total · 68/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Lightner, Jr. on Dec 20, 2006 |
| Admins: | Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon |
Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
Details
Description
This is the best climb on the best wall in Thailand, and I have had many a climber tell me it was the best route they ever did. Enjoy.
P1: Start just right of the cave rappels and go up 80 feet to a ledge and anchor. (5.10b)
P2: Go up and through a bulge then some strenuous moves that put on a good pump. Work left to the left side of the large ledge. (5.11d)
P3: Go straight up from the belay to a bulge, then "brachiate" out it like a gibbon to wildly exposed finish. Fall off and you might need new shorts. (5.12a)
P4: The crux. First go up and through some hard bouldering moves, then traverse right to a steep headwall that is very pumpy. Finish at a stance. (5.12b)
From the stance, a few long moves take you up and left onto the arete, then left more to the cave and the rappels. (5.10d)
20 Comments