Type: Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Sam Lightner, Greg Collum, Larissa Collum , and a host of helpers
Page Views: 14,082 total · 78/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Dec 20, 2006
Admins: Tao Techakanon, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


48 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details

Description

This is the best climb on the best wall in Thailand, and I have had many a climber tell me it was the best route they ever did. Enjoy.

P1: Start just right of the cave rappels and go up 80 feet to a ledge and anchor. (5.10b)

P2: Go up and through a bulge then some strenuous moves that put on a good pump. Work left to the left side of the large ledge. (5.11d)

P3: Go straight up from the belay to a bulge, then "brachiate" out it like a gibbon to wildly exposed finish. Fall off and you might need new shorts. (5.12a)

P4: The crux. First go up and through some hard bouldering moves, then traverse right to a steep headwall that is very pumpy. Finish at a stance. (5.12b)

From the stance, a few long moves take you up and left onto the arete, then left more to the cave and the rappels. (5.10d)

Location

Up the center of the north face of the Thaiwand

Protection

A dozen quickdraws and two ropes to get down. The bolts should be good now, as it's been redone 3 times.

Photos