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Routes in The Thaiwand

20 Kilos of Steel S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Caveman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Circus Oz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Equatorial S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fit To Be Thai'd S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Getting to Know You S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Inaka (The Country) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
King, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Live and Let Thai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lord of the Thai's S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mala Mujer S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monkey Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Organ Grinder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out of Sticks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Primal Scream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sluggard Prince, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Solution 41 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Spicy Speck Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taming the East S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Greg and Larissa Collum
Page Views: 2,248 total · 16/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Feb 28, 2007
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details

Description [Suggest Change]

this is the route running just right of Organ Grinder. This route is 100% threads, not a single bolt! beginning is so so, on easy rock, but the end is some airy moves over space on big holds, fabulous stuff for the grade.

Location [Suggest Change]

just right of the Organ Grinder (that tackles the right side of the overhanging cave) and left of Out of the Sticks, which starts above a cool ground level cave.

Protection [Suggest Change]

all threads! in good shape as of 2/07

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
I believe it's 7 threads to the anchors. Oct 19, 2007
Clayton Rardon
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Clayton Rardon   Yucca Valley, CA
 
great route, some of the slings need replacing as of 12/07, one of them broke during a fall mid-Dec, '07. Dec 28, 2007
Glen Charnoski
Boulder, CO
Glen Charnoski   Boulder, CO
Lovely route! Stalagtite traverse overhang, bearing right. Exciting! Oct 13, 2011
Ming
  5.10b/c
Ming  
  5.10b/c
The traverse from stalactite to stalactite is awesome. Cool and airy with big and secure holds. The anchor is bomber. There is a pitch that goes above it that I did that goes at about 10b ish. Delicate face climbing (and route finding) ending on an airy traverse out onto a small stalactite that finishes at a huge ledge with a solid anchor. Does anyone know what it is? There is also a 3rd pitch but that is solidly in the 11+ territory from the looks of it so I rapped down from there. Mar 16, 2012
So fun! Great route with a stemmy center and a super exposed airy crux! One of my favorites! Jan 13, 2017
Really awesome line full of the tufas and stalactites you came to Thailand for! Seems a lot easier than the grades in the guidebook and on Mountain Project as it is mostly a jug haul. More of a test of the mind as the exposure can lead some to feel like it's harder than it actually is. Views are incredible from the top! There are about 9 threads directly on the line but a couple seem redundant. If you do decide to clock them all watch for that z-clip. Nov 21, 2017
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
 
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
 
The second pitch is definitely worth doing. The start of P2 is a bit runout though, so I'd actually recommend doing it as a single pitch from the ground.

The anchor atop P2 didn't inspire confidence so we added a new cordalette and quick link in February 2018. Feb 15, 2018
Cameron Saul
San Francisco
Cameron Saul   San Francisco
As of 2/22/18, there's a baseball sized nest of giant wasps (Dtua dtor? they are about an inch and a half long) in a large pocket just left of the last thread. Unfortunate place for it; hard to avoid using the edge of their little pocket. Biggest wasps I've ever seen. Be careful. Feb 22, 2018

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