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Routes in The Thaiwand

20 Kilos of Steel S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Caveman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Circus Oz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Equatorial S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fit To Be Thai'd S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Getting to Know You S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Inaka (The Country) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
King, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Live and Let Thai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lord of the Thai's S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mala Mujer S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monkey Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Organ Grinder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out of Sticks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Primal Scream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sluggard Prince, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Solution 41 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Spicy Speck Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taming the East S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Greg and Larissa Collum
Page Views: 2,327 total · 16/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Feb 28, 2007
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route

52 Opinions

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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details


this is the route running just right of Organ Grinder. This route is 100% threads, not a single bolt! beginning is so so, on easy rock, but the end is some airy moves over space on big holds, fabulous stuff for the grade.


just right of the Organ Grinder (that tackles the right side of the overhanging cave) and left of Out of the Sticks, which starts above a cool ground level cave.


all threads! in good shape as of 2/07


susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
I believe it's 7 threads to the anchors. Oct 19, 2007
Clayton Rardon
Yucca Valley, CA
Clayton Rardon   Yucca Valley, CA
great route, some of the slings need replacing as of 12/07, one of them broke during a fall mid-Dec, '07. Dec 28, 2007
Glen Charnoski
Boulder, CO
Glen Charnoski   Boulder, CO
Lovely route! Stalagtite traverse overhang, bearing right. Exciting! Oct 13, 2011
The traverse from stalactite to stalactite is awesome. Cool and airy with big and secure holds. The anchor is bomber. There is a pitch that goes above it that I did that goes at about 10b ish. Delicate face climbing (and route finding) ending on an airy traverse out onto a small stalactite that finishes at a huge ledge with a solid anchor. Does anyone know what it is? There is also a 3rd pitch but that is solidly in the 11+ territory from the looks of it so I rapped down from there. Mar 16, 2012
Grace Koerber
San Francisco, CA
Grace Koerber   San Francisco, CA
So fun! Great route with a stemmy center and a super exposed airy crux! One of my favorites! Jan 13, 2017
Really awesome line full of the tufas and stalactites you came to Thailand for! Seems a lot easier than the grades in the guidebook and on Mountain Project as it is mostly a jug haul. More of a test of the mind as the exposure can lead some to feel like it's harder than it actually is. Views are incredible from the top! There are about 9 threads directly on the line but a couple seem redundant. If you do decide to clock them all watch for that z-clip. Nov 21, 2017
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
The second pitch is definitely worth doing. The start of P2 is a bit runout though, so I'd actually recommend doing it as a single pitch from the ground.

The anchor atop P2 didn't inspire confidence so we added a new cordalette and quick link in February 2018. Feb 15, 2018
Cameron Saul
San Francisco
Cameron Saul   San Francisco
As of 2/22/18, there's a baseball sized nest of giant wasps (Dtua dtor? they are about an inch and a half long) in a large pocket just left of the last thread. Unfortunate place for it; hard to avoid using the edge of their little pocket. Biggest wasps I've ever seen. Be careful. Feb 22, 2018

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