Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Greg and Larissa Collum
Page Views: 2,425 total · 17/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Feb 28, 2007
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


53 Opinions

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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details

Description

this is the route running just right of Organ Grinder. This route is 100% threads, not a single bolt! beginning is so so, on easy rock, but the end is some airy moves over space on big holds, fabulous stuff for the grade.

Location

just right of the Organ Grinder (that tackles the right side of the overhanging cave) and left of Out of the Sticks, which starts above a cool ground level cave.

Protection

all threads! in good shape as of 2/07

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
I believe it's 7 threads to the anchors. Oct 19, 2007
Clayton Rardon
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Clayton Rardon   Yucca Valley, CA
 
great route, some of the slings need replacing as of 12/07, one of them broke during a fall mid-Dec, '07. Dec 28, 2007
Glen Charnoski
Boulder, CO
Glen Charnoski   Boulder, CO
Lovely route! Stalagtite traverse overhang, bearing right. Exciting! Oct 13, 2011
Ming
  5.10b/c
Ming  
  5.10b/c
The traverse from stalactite to stalactite is awesome. Cool and airy with big and secure holds. The anchor is bomber. There is a pitch that goes above it that I did that goes at about 10b ish. Delicate face climbing (and route finding) ending on an airy traverse out onto a small stalactite that finishes at a huge ledge with a solid anchor. Does anyone know what it is? There is also a 3rd pitch but that is solidly in the 11+ territory from the looks of it so I rapped down from there. Mar 16, 2012
Grace Koerber
San Francisco, CA
 
Grace Koerber   San Francisco, CA
 
So fun! Great route with a stemmy center and a super exposed airy crux! One of my favorites! Jan 13, 2017
Really awesome line full of the tufas and stalactites you came to Thailand for! Seems a lot easier than the grades in the guidebook and on Mountain Project as it is mostly a jug haul. More of a test of the mind as the exposure can lead some to feel like it's harder than it actually is. Views are incredible from the top! There are about 9 threads directly on the line but a couple seem redundant. If you do decide to clock them all watch for that z-clip. Nov 21, 2017
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
 
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
 
The second pitch is definitely worth doing. The start of P2 is a bit runout though, so I'd actually recommend doing it as a single pitch from the ground.

The anchor atop P2 didn't inspire confidence so we added a new cordalette and quick link in February 2018. Feb 15, 2018
Cameron Saul
San Francisco
Cameron Saul   San Francisco
As of 2/22/18, there's a baseball sized nest of giant wasps (Dtua dtor? they are about an inch and a half long) in a large pocket just left of the last thread. Unfortunate place for it; hard to avoid using the edge of their little pocket. Biggest wasps I've ever seen. Be careful. Feb 22, 2018