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Routes in The Thaiwand

20 Kilos of Steel S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Caveman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Circus Oz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Equatorial S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fit To Be Thai'd S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Getting to Know You S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Inaka (The Country) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
King, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Live and Let Thai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lord of the Thai's S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mala Mujer S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monkey Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Organ Grinder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out of Sticks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Primal Scream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sluggard Prince, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Solution 41 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Spicy Speck Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taming the East S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Greg & Larissa Collum 2/92
Page Views: 1,139 total, 9/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jan 7, 2008
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

Start up making a tricky move getting off the ground, then easier ground for a short ways. Head up cool slabby rock on nice features to the first anchor, mid 5.10 or so. Now rest up and scope out the roof ahead. Pull the difficult roof on hard to see holds and head up the beautiful clean face to the anchors high above.

This route has a mid anchor but I'm not sure why anyone would use it, as it isn't set up for rappel. So best to use a 70m rope or be very careful with length on a 60m.

Location

Shares the Start with out of Sticks. Right of the all sling route Monkey Love and left of the Cave Access Route.

Protection

12 Bolts to Anchors. RB 1998, and maybe more recently. One of the crux's of this route is deciding which bolt to clip as there are up to 3 different types to choose from. Remember to look for the glue-ins with the red epoxy.

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