Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: lightner jr, schoffl and schoffl
Page Views: 1,126 total · 8/month
Shared By: richard magill on Apr 12, 2007
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details

Description

Awesome steep line that I found to be extremely challenging. The main thing I noted was that it simply did not look probable to pull this off at a 12a grade. You get under a bunch of roofs and hard looking stuff but if you just force yourself to believe, you will find a nice 5.11 (or maybe 12a) sequence to bring you up to the next improbable stance. Keep believing!

Location

This is one route to the right of Monkey Love, which is fairly easy to spot because it is all threads.

Protection

9 clips to anchors, including 1 or 2 threads. My guide indicates this was last rebolted in 1997, but when I did it in 2005 I didn't note any apparent rust on the bolts.

Photos

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New bolts as of early '07.

Devious and sustained, with multiple cruxes.

Perhaps harder than Caveman and nearly as good. Apr 12, 2007
Aaron Hartig
  5.12b
Aaron Hartig  
  5.12b
Found this route to be quite strong for the grade. maybe it was because i didnt have any lunch but none the less amazing route great crux, or 2 May 18, 2011
RJ Skerry-Ryan
Mountain View, CA
 
RJ Skerry-Ryan   Mountain View, CA
 
Very cool route! It just keeps coming.

Note, as of 3/9/2014 the anchor had 3 rusty oval carabiners on it. They are probably fine but really do not inspire confidence. Mar 11, 2014
Will McNeill
Denver, CO
  5.12b
Will McNeill   Denver, CO
  5.12b
Apparently a hold broke off the low crux, bumping the grade to 7b/12b Jan 1, 2017