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Routes in The Thaiwand

20 Kilos of Steel S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Caveman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Circus Oz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Equatorial S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fit To Be Thai'd S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Getting to Know You S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Inaka (The Country) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
King, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Live and Let Thai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lord of the Thai's S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mala Mujer S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monkey Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Organ Grinder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out of Sticks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Primal Scream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sluggard Prince, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Solution 41 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Spicy Speck Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taming the East S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: lightner jr, schoffl and schoffl
Page Views: 982 total, 8/month
Shared By: richard magill on Apr 12, 2007
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

Awesome steep line that I found to be extremely challenging. The main thing I noted was that it simply did not look probable to pull this off at a 12a grade. You get under a bunch of roofs and hard looking stuff but if you just force yourself to believe, you will find a nice 5.11 (or maybe 12a) sequence to bring you up to the next improbable stance. Keep believing!

Location

This is one route to the right of Monkey Love, which is fairly easy to spot because it is all threads.

Protection

9 clips to anchors, including 1 or 2 threads. My guide indicates this was last rebolted in 1997, but when I did it in 2005 I didn't note any apparent rust on the bolts.

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Will McNeill
Denver, CO
  5.12b
Will McNeill   Denver, CO
  5.12b
Apparently a hold broke off the low crux, bumping the grade to 7b/12b Jan 1, 2017
RJ Ryan
Cambridge, MA
 
RJ Ryan   Cambridge, MA
 
Very cool route! It just keeps coming.

Note, as of 3/9/2014 the anchor had 3 rusty oval carabiners on it. They are probably fine but really do not inspire confidence. Mar 11, 2014
Aaron Hartig
  5.12b
Aaron Hartig  
  5.12b
Found this route to be quite strong for the grade. maybe it was because i didnt have any lunch but none the less amazing route great crux, or 2 May 18, 2011
New bolts as of early '07.

Devious and sustained, with multiple cruxes.

Perhaps harder than Caveman and nearly as good. Apr 12, 2007