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Routes in The Thaiwand

20 Kilos of Steel S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Caveman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Circus Oz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Equatorial S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fit To Be Thai'd S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Getting to Know You S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Inaka (The Country) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
King and I (P1), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
King, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Live and Let Thai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lord of the Thai's S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mala Mujer S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monkey Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Organ Grinder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out of Sticks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Primal Scream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sluggard Prince, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Solution 41 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Spicy Speck Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taming the East S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Sam Lightner and Jacob Valdez
Page Views: 592 total · 4/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Dec 19, 2006
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details

Description

This route is an easier start to the popular multi-pitch route The King and I. There are two steep bulges that must be surmounted with the first one being the easier of the two. The second crux comes right before the ledge.

If desired, you can continue with the second pitch (and beyond) of The King and I. Note that it's easiest to descend that route with two 60m ropes.

Location

This route is on the right side of the Thaiwand Wall. It's accessed by climbing the bamboo ladder at the base of the wall and then heading up and right to a ledge for about 50 feet. Once on the ledge, you'll see three routes. This is the leftmost of the three.

Protection

Bolts. 10 clips. Rappel anchor. A 60m rope is required to lower off this route.

Photos

mc kaiser
Lander, Wy
  5.11+
mc kaiser   Lander, Wy
  5.11+
In the 2014 king book this is listed as being right of Fit to be Thai'd. If that's the case, it's closer to 5.11+, moderately sustained, and steeper than it looks from the belay! Sep 24, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Judging from the MP descriptions of the three routes on this ledge, the one you are describing is more likely to be Taming the East Sep 25, 2016
mc kaiser
Lander, Wy
  5.11+
mc kaiser   Lander, Wy
  5.11+
Thing is Taming the East starts way right of the line I'm talking about- you have to traverse out from the ledge following a fixed line to get to the belay. Lightner's 2005 guide says the line on the right of the ledge and left of Fit to be Thai'd is the start to the King and I at 5.11d. The grading and topos from these two books seem to agree that whatever is left of Fit to be Thai'd is 5.11d- King calls this line Getting to Know You and Lightner says it's the King and I. Sep 26, 2016

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