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Routes in Eagle Point Buttress

Blister in the Sun T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Day Dreaming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Day Tripping T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Foxfire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Twin Cracks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Ed Pearsall, 1980
Page Views: 135 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 9, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description [Suggest Change]

A good route with a tough move at the crux and some endurance requirements for the top. It may be a little sandbagged at its traditional rating of 5.9+. But then again, 5.9+ is a traditional sandbag rating. I'd upgrade this to 5.10a, except in my experience, 5.9+ is generally harder than 5.10a... try for yourself.
Climb the right crack until the left crack is the easier of the two, then finish in that on to the top.

Location [Suggest Change]

Nat far left of the prominent buttress of "Fox Fire" there is a deep dark (OK, black) left-facing corner with a thin handcrack in it, which is "Day Dreaming" an excellent 5.9. Just a few meters further left, there is a pair of cracks called, as you may have guessed "twin cracks."

Protection [Suggest Change]

A set of nuts and small to medium cams. Lower from a fixed gear anchor on the ledge up top.


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