Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Ed Pearsall, 1980
Page Views: 156 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 9, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

A good route with a tough move at the crux and some endurance requirements for the top. It may be a little sandbagged at its traditional rating of 5.9+. But then again, 5.9+ is a traditional sandbag rating. I'd upgrade this to 5.10a, except in my experience, 5.9+ is generally harder than 5.10a... try for yourself.
Climb the right crack until the left crack is the easier of the two, then finish in that on to the top.

Location

Nat far left of the prominent buttress of "Fox Fire" there is a deep dark (OK, black) left-facing corner with a thin handcrack in it, which is "Day Dreaming" an excellent 5.9. Just a few meters further left, there is a pair of cracks called, as you may have guessed "twin cracks."

Protection

A set of nuts and small to medium cams. Lower from a fixed gear anchor on the ledge up top.

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