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Routes in Eagle Point Buttress

Blister in the Sun T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Day Dreaming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Day Tripping T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Foxfire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Twin Cracks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Ed Pearsall, 1980
Page Views: 118 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 9, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

A good route with a tough move at the crux and some endurance requirements for the top. It may be a little sandbagged at its traditional rating of 5.9+. But then again, 5.9+ is a traditional sandbag rating. I'd upgrade this to 5.10a, except in my experience, 5.9+ is generally harder than 5.10a... try for yourself.
Climb the right crack until the left crack is the easier of the two, then finish in that on to the top.

Location

Nat far left of the prominent buttress of "Fox Fire" there is a deep dark (OK, black) left-facing corner with a thin handcrack in it, which is "Day Dreaming" an excellent 5.9. Just a few meters further left, there is a pair of cracks called, as you may have guessed "twin cracks."

Protection

A set of nuts and small to medium cams. Lower from a fixed gear anchor on the ledge up top.

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