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Routes in Eagle Point Buttress
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Blister in the Sun T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Cooler Than Kissing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Day Dreaming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Day Tripping T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dragon's Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Foxfire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Hangover Problem, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Quantum Mechanics T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Radio static T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Scared As a Virgin T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tinker's Toy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twin Cracks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 478 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel Wilkes on Dec 28, 2021 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
This route is in the first obvious dihedral climber's left from Day tripping. At first this looks like a wide crack but does not climb as an offwidth or require gear larger than 4''. I don't really know if this route was previously named or any other information about it other than I was not the first person to climb it. It's two decent pitches on dirty but good quality rock to access the really amazing location of the dragon's wing ledge.
Pitch 1- Leaving the ground is possibly the hardest moves, once up 15 ft or so many large plates, edges and crimps appear for the remainder of the dihedral. This pitch is about 60 ft tall and ends on a big ledge with a gear anchor.
Pitch 2- From the belay step about 30 ft climbers right to the margin of the ledge and peer around the outside of a huge boulder leaning up against the cliff. Locate a thin crack about 5 ft out on the face of this boulder that leads up to a ledge. Climb the boulder for 15 ft or so to a ledge (top of boulder). Then move into the thin crack system on the main face. Climb this crack and many face holds to top out on the to Dragon's Wing ledge. I recommend at the top of the crack traverse left a couple feet and use the aid of a tree to gain the ledge. This pitch is about 40 ft and is on nice orange rock.
Location
Walk climber's left of the obvious start of day tripping for about 200 yards, this is the first obvious, climbable looking dihedral crack. It looks a bit wide but climbs very reasonable.
From the top of the route rap from a tree on the Dragon's Wing ledge with slings on it, a single 60m will barely get you down.
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