Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pirate's Wall

Blackbeard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Booty (aka Long John) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clast Away S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cobbles and Crossbones S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oxymorons S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pirated S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirates of the Carabiner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scurvy Dog S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shiver Me Cobbles S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terror on the High [Eleven] Sea S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trick or Treat? S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Walking the Plank (aka The Buzz) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jay Foley and Mike Freeborn, 10/31/1997
Page Views: 1,426 total, 11/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jan 11, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


39 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Good, long route, with a strenuous start and finish. Follow the first three bolts up and over a bulge. Past the third bolt, the climbing eases until the fifth bolt where the route begins to overhang slightly. Continue up the dark water streak to the crux just under the eighth bolt – good holds, but a committing reach to the ninth bolt. The anchors are also a bit awkward to clip. Watch for some loose cobbles near the center of the route.

Location

Located near the center of Pirate’s Wall, just up hill from the Training Wall. Look for a dark streak on the top half of the wall. Captain Hook starts below the streak, and then follows it to the anchors.

Protection

10 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Paul Sukow
Denver, CO
 
Paul Sukow   Denver, CO
 
As of thanksgiving 2016, there are still two bolts near the top that need replacement. Oct 5, 2017
AOSR
Wherever we park!
 
AOSR   Wherever we park!
 
Two of the bolts near the top where it's steep and the rock isn't exactly bomber need to be replaced. Cool line. May 26, 2015
Armand Alexeev
  5.10c
Armand Alexeev  
  5.10c
Near mid route there is a weak rock band to the left of the bolt line. There is easier climbing in this band, but after dodging a soccer ball sized ejection on belay I found a great line through or slightly right of the bolts. Beware! Oct 10, 2012
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10c
Thanks for the names and background info on these routes, Jay. I believe the naming confusion for a few of these came from the fact that Gary Clark did not know the names of the routes when he created his online guide so he gave them something more appealing than "Unnamed" and stated that he'd like to know the real names. In the updated the El Rito Sport PDF, the real names have been added. Thanks! Jul 9, 2008
Jfoley  
This one was first climbed on Halloween day 1997 by myself and Mike Freeborn. Because of the great finish combined with a less than perfect mid section we called it: Trick Or Treat? Jul 9, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10c
I really enjoy this route. It's a little inconsistent with it being a bit difficult to start, cruiser easy in the middle and steep and strenous on the upper third of the route. But the jugs up there are big!
I believe this route is known as "Trick or Treat" in Foley's Taos Rock book. Sep 30, 2007