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Trick or Treat?

5.10+, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 62 votes
FA: Jay Foley and Mike Freeborn, 10/31/1997
New Mexico > El Rito > El Rito Sport Area > Pirate's Wall
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Description

Good, long route, with a strenuous start and finish. Follow the first three bolts up and over a bulge. Past the third bolt, the climbing eases until the fifth bolt where the route begins to overhang slightly. Continue up the dark water streak to the crux just under the eighth bolt – good holds, but a committing reach to the ninth bolt. The anchors are also a bit awkward to clip. Watch for some loose cobbles near the center of the route.

Location

Located near the center of Pirate’s Wall, just up hill from the Training Wall. Look for a dark streak on the top half of the wall. Captain Hook starts below the streak, and then follows it to the anchors.

Protection

10 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Eyes intent on the next jug after climbing through the bulging crux at the top of "Trick or Treat?"
[Hide Photo] Eyes intent on the next jug after climbing through the bulging crux at the top of "Trick or Treat?"
Trick or Treat? (a.k.a. Captain Hook) (10d) and Walking the Plank (11c) on Pirate's Wall.
[Hide Photo] Trick or Treat? (a.k.a. Captain Hook) (10d) and Walking the Plank (11c) on Pirate's Wall.
Jake getting started on Trick or Treat?
[Hide Photo] Jake getting started on Trick or Treat?

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] I really enjoy this route. It's a little inconsistent with it being a bit difficult to start, cruiser easy in the middle and steep and strenous on the upper third of the route. But the jugs up there are big!
I believe this route is known as "Trick or Treat" in Foley's Taos Rock book. Sep 30, 2007
[Hide Comment] This one was first climbed on Halloween day 1997 by myself and Mike Freeborn. Because of the great finish combined with a less than perfect mid section we called it: Trick Or Treat? Jul 9, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the names and background info on these routes, Jay. I believe the naming confusion for a few of these came from the fact that Gary Clark did not know the names of the routes when he created his online guide so he gave them something more appealing than "Unnamed" and stated that he'd like to know the real names. In the updated the El Rito Sport PDF, lamountaineers.org/Elrito/S… the real names have been added. Thanks! Jul 9, 2008
Armand Alexeev
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Near mid route there is a weak rock band to the left of the bolt line. There is easier climbing in this band, but after dodging a soccer ball sized ejection on belay I found a great line through or slightly right of the bolts. Beware! Oct 10, 2012
AOSR
Green Mnt
 
[Hide Comment] Two of the bolts near the top where it's steep and the rock isn't exactly bomber need to be replaced. Cool line. May 26, 2015
Paul Sukow
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] As of thanksgiving 2016, there are still two bolts near the top that need replacement. Oct 5, 2017