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Routes in Pirate's Wall

Blackbeard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Booty (aka Long John) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clast Away S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cobbles and Crossbones S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oxymorons S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pirated S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirates of the Carabiner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scurvy Dog S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shiver Me Cobbles S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terror on the High [Eleven] Sea S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trick or Treat? S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Walking the Plank (aka The Buzz) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Thomas
Page Views: 2,225 total, 16/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Apr 24, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Head up just behind the large blocks to the right of the crag, following a black streak up the cobbles. Crux right around the third bolt. Crux can be bypassed above the third bolt by moving to the right.

CAUTION: Watch the pillar behind you! Potential for leader to hit it.

Location

Right side of crag, behind the large boulder, going up the black streak.

Protection

8 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Rob Warden...Space Lizard
Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an…
Rob Warden...Space Lizard   Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an…
if you blow the third clip you will get really smashed. I watch my boss get a nasty concusion here. also wear a helmet. Dec 20, 2011
Justin Whitell
California
Justin Whitell   California
On 7/26/11 I removed the super sketchy sawn through snap links from the anchor. The chains are still in good condition. Bring quickdraws to toprope. Jul 28, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
Ouch, Levi. Glad you're OK. While I've heard from many concerned people about the boulder behind the climber I've never actually heard of anyone hitting it in a clean fall. The rope behind the leg while leading will most likely be bad no matter what--if the leader's head doesn't hit the boulder first, it'll hit the wall instead.

Mind the rope, then the boulder, then the ground. :-) Apr 28, 2011
Levi Wilner
Alamosa, CO
Levi Wilner   Alamosa, CO
Bold Text 5 stitches. Flipped upside down by rope behind my leg. Nearest Hospital Espanola. Mind the Boulder, not the ground. Apr 4, 2011
lance hadfield
tijeras
 
lance hadfield   tijeras
 
the FA on this climb was Mark Thomas I am pretty sure Jun 15, 2010
Jesse Morehouse   CO
 
I second the warning about falls low on the route. A fun climb. Jun 7, 2008
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Excellent climb. Steep climbing on positive holds. Falling low can be a danger. Popular. Strong gym climbers like this one. Oct 8, 2006