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Blackbeard

5.10c, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 78 votes
FA: Mark Thomas
New Mexico > El Rito > El Rito Sport Area > Pirate's Wall
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Warning DetailsDrop down

Description

Head up just behind the large blocks to the right of the crag, following a black streak up the cobbles. Crux right around the third bolt. Crux can be bypassed above the third bolt by moving to the right.

CAUTION: Watch the pillar behind you! Potential for leader to hit it.

Location

Right side of crag, behind the large boulder, going up the black streak.

Protection

9 bolts to anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Follow the obvious black stripe.
[Hide Photo] Follow the obvious black stripe.
Michael prepares to make the next clip on Blackbeard
[Hide Photo] Michael prepares to make the next clip on Blackbeard
Michael starts up Blackbeard
[Hide Photo] Michael starts up Blackbeard
Climb up the black streak that starts behind the big boulder
[Hide Photo] Climb up the black streak that starts behind the big boulder
Steve in the deck zone!
[Hide Photo] Steve in the deck zone!
Glenn finishing up the route as he clips the last anchors of the trip (Blackbeard, 5.10c)
[Hide Photo] Glenn finishing up the route as he clips the last anchors of the trip (Blackbeard, 5.10c)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Excellent climb. Steep climbing on positive holds. Falling low can be a danger. Popular. Strong gym climbers like this one. Oct 8, 2006
[Hide Comment] I second the warning about falls low on the route. A fun climb. Jun 7, 2008
lance hadfield
tijeras
 
[Hide Comment] the FA on this climb was Mark Thomas I am pretty sure Jun 15, 2010
Levi Wilner
Alamosa, CO
[Hide Comment] Bold Text 5 stitches. Flipped upside down by rope behind my leg. Nearest Hospital Espanola. Mind the Boulder, not the ground. Apr 4, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Ouch, Levi. Glad you're OK. While I've heard from many concerned people about the boulder behind the climber I've never actually heard of anyone hitting it in a clean fall. The rope behind the leg while leading will most likely be bad no matter what--if the leader's head doesn't hit the boulder first, it'll hit the wall instead.

Mind the rope, then the boulder, then the ground. :-) Apr 28, 2011
Justin Whitell
California
[Hide Comment] On 7/26/11 I removed the super sketchy sawn through snap links from the anchor. The chains are still in good condition. Bring quickdraws to toprope. Jul 28, 2011
Rob WardenSpaceLizard
las Vegans, the cosmic void
[Hide Comment] if you blow the third clip you will get really smashed. I watch my boss get a nasty concusion here. also wear a helmet. Dec 20, 2011