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Routes in Pirate's Wall

Blackbeard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Booty (aka Long John) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clast Away S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cobbles and Crossbones S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oxymorons S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pirated S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirates of the Carabiner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scurvy Dog S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shiver Me Cobbles S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Terror on the High [Eleven] Sea S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trick or Treat? S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Walking the Plank (aka The Buzz) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 684 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jun 29, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Smallish holds from the ground past the first bolt over the initial bulge are the route's crux. After that the climbing is easier but the bolt spacing gets your attention near the finish.
The 11a climbing is done way early in the route. A decent route for breaking into the 11s.

Location

The route starts in black rock with a small bulge about eight feet up. This is the first route to the right of Scurvy Dog --about 20 feet away.

Protection

6 bolts to stainless steel clip anchors.

Photos

Owen Summerscales
Los Alamos, NM
 
Owen Summerscales   Los Alamos, NM
 
I think this route is better than the above comments make it sound. Yes it is an intensely bouldery route, with a V2+ opening boulder problem (what's that in YDS? 5.11a seems sandbagged) into a pretty decent, but runout 5.10. It isnt chossy, just a little under-trafficked, and there are some beautiful large water-polished quartzite boulder-cobbles up high. Jul 23, 2017
Matt Price
  5.11a PG13
Matt Price  
  5.11a PG13
The route does have its problems. I was pretty freaked out leading it cause I thought I was going to deck trying to clip the second bolt. The top is fun & mellow, but is inconsistent w/ the bottom. Sep 12, 2007
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
I agree, this route is pretty bad. Its a shame the rock here isn't better shaped, since its one of the tallest cliffs around. Jul 9, 2007
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
To me this is probably one of the worst routes at El Rito. Difficult un-fun start leads to much easier climbing, and run-outs on poor chossy rock. Somewhere between a bomb and one star. Jul 2, 2007