Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Mark Thomas
Page Views: 2,778 total · 20/month
Shared By: Matt Price on Jun 29, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

There is a difficult start to a high first bolt. You get a good rest ledge before starting up the increasingly steep top section. Crux near the top. Big holds on an overhanging wall - great route for working on endurance.

Location

Long fun route up the middle of Pirates Wall. 4th route from the left, just left of Pirated.

Protection

10 Bolts

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Way up high on the route working through the crux of the route. November 2008.
Way up high on the route working through the cr…
 2

4 Comments

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Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Fun route, probably the best route on Pirates wall, Long John is quite good as well. Watch for the nice resting jug just before the crux on the left. You can throw an arm over it and get a nice rest for the crux crimpy bulge ahead. Make it past the crux and the difficulties ease up for the few feet left to the anchors. This route wouldn't be nearly as hard if the crux was lower on the route.

I also seem to remember Mark Thomas being the FA for this route. Jun 29, 2007
Dave Wachter
Dave Wachter  
Great route. Missed that arm-dangler jug, DTP, but enough good shakeouts along the way to pull through the high crux. I hadn't been on it in a few years, and was amazed to find the bee hive (just to the left about 2/3 of the way up) as active as ever. Sep 21, 2008
CaseyE Eales
CaseyE Eales  
Had a real scare on this route when at the last bolt a football sized foothold broke off and nearly hit my wife below. I would say continue to watch for choss to the left of the last two bolts. Apr 13, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11b
Dave Wachter on Sep 21, 2008 wrote:...I hadn't been on it in a few years, and was amazed to find the bee hive (just to the left about 2/3 of the way up) as active as ever.
Over ten years later and that beehive is still plenty active! That said, I've climbed the route numerous times while the honey bees flew in, out and around the hive hueco and have never had an issue. I've retrieved many bail biners from the eighth bolt likely on account of the bee activity. :) Oct 29, 2018