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Routes in Pirate's Wall

Blackbeard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Booty (aka Long John) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clast Away S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cobbles and Crossbones S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oxymorons S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pirated S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pirates of the Carabiner S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Scurvy Dog S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shiver Me Cobbles S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Terror on the High Seas S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trick or Treat? S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Walking the Plank (aka The Buzz) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bolted and FA: Miguel Grijalva
Page Views: 2,000 total · 13/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Apr 24, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Starting atop the huge, detached boulder, climb through rather sustained, flowy, fun, endurance climbing, until you hit the top. The crux is clipping the anchors.

Location

Starts directly on the large block at the right end of the crag. Just left of the black streak that is Blackbeard.

Protection

6 bolts to anchors.

Photos

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Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11c
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.11c
I was actually pleasantly surprised by this route. While it definitely isn't as good as some of its neighbors, the climbing is clean, sustained and pretty fun. Clipping the anchors is a bit tricky but not unreasonable. No lowering hardware at present, just chains. Be prepared to clean it. Jun 25, 2011
lance hadfield
tijeras
lance hadfield   tijeras
this route was bolted and sent by Miguel Grijalva Dec 20, 2011
Mort
 
Mort  
 
You can stretch to clip from below or climb until your hands are just above them. I think the climbing is actually pretty fun. You can climb fairly distinct lines through the middle - left or right. Oct 27, 2013
Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
  5.11d
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
  5.11d
I pulled off an undercling between the last bolt and the anchor on May 17, 2014. While it doesn't change the grade, it is a bummer to lose a cool hold. May 19, 2014
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12a
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
  5.12a
Fun, fairly sustained, with a .11 crux in the middle and difficult moves to clip the anchors. Aug 4, 2014
magoo
Duke City
magoo   Duke City
I was never really satisfied with the location of the anchor and the resulting ackward finish to this route but I never got around to doing anything about it. If someone was motivated to relocate the anchor to a less contrived location, I'd say go for it. It seems like the route could perhaps be extended by a bolt or two with the anchor up over the lip somewhere. Sep 9, 2017

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