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Routes in (f) Torture Machine Area

Adrenaline S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Conundrum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Whammy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Conundrum S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
House of Pain S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Maximizer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Minimizer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Play S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Whammy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tangerine Dream S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Technicolor Tango S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Torture Machine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vertigo S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whammy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whammy Play S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonderstuff S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2006
Page Views: 3,548 total · 26/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 8, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

Climb a vertical to bulging face just left of the drill marks and then up into a clean, right-facing corner. Deft footwork and a bit of liebacking will see you through to the exit moves which lead to anchors on a sloping ledge.

A decent route that's yet another good warm-up for this area packed with quality routes.

Location

Located about 50' left of Tangerine Dream, a prominent orange streak of rock in the area, 35' right of Whammy and just left of an obvious section of drilled rock.

Protection

7 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

Upper corner is good if not dirty. The first half has a lot of chossy hollow junk and a couple bolts are in hollow rock. Yikes! Dec 22, 2016
Fun route with good moves. Sustained for the grade. Careful about some loose rock in the crack when you get to the dihedral. Aug 20, 2014
Benjamin Quinones  
  5.10c
Does anybody know what the 2nd pitch that goes left of the anchors is rated/named? is it Maximizer? Jan 7, 2013
Rob M
Shangri-LA
Rob M   Shangri-LA
Pretty fun route... I'd give it a low 10c... don't get suckered to the right when you get the the short dihedral near the top... Feb 25, 2012
johnnydanger
California
  5.10c
johnnydanger   California
  5.10c
If you go right and up the jugs of the arete it makes the climb a bit softer. If you go straight up and into the book its going to be a solid climb at the grade. Negotiating the crack/dihedral is for sure a battle of the pump. I got a lucky onsight, but can for sure see where others will get stuck. Have fun. Oct 18, 2011
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
 
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
 
This is one of my favorite routes at the Quarry. Too bad it's not as long as Trundle Trophy or Tangerine Dream, but it's still a good warm-up route. Nov 10, 2010
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10c
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.10c
If I'm not mistaken, that undercling is now gone. There's a mark in chalk that reads 'Bad X' and underneath that, the word 'Fine' is written, perhaps where the flake used to be. Anyway, this climb was a gem. The layback about halfway up is totally pure and great fun. It's a pity it's not longer, but I definitely recommend it as a warmup! Jun 8, 2009
Pat C
Honolulu
  5.10a/b
Pat C   Honolulu
  5.10a/b
A guy told me this was 5.9... He must have been thinking of a different route. I donno, I think this one is 10a/b maybe. It's definitely not 10c. Jun 6, 2009
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.10c
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.10c
Watch out for the loose undercling at about 1/3 height. It is possible to pass the hold with no increase in difficulty.

A nice sustained route for the grade. Sep 21, 2007