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Routes in (f) Torture Machine Area

Adrenaline S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Conundrum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Whammy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Conundrum S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
House of Pain S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Maximizer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Minimizer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Play S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Whammy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tangerine Dream S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Technicolor Tango S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Torture Machine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vertigo S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whammy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whammy Play S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonderstuff S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2005
Page Views: 2,041 total · 15/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 30, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

A nice warm-up for the area offering gradually steeper climbing until the crux at the top which takes good holds out a swell of rock. Make sure to unclip the last bolt when lowering to prevent your rope from getting pinched in the "vee" and trashing it unduly.

Location

Shares the first four bolts with Tangerine Dream then splits left to a shared anchor with Adrenaline.

Protection

9 bolts, ring anchors

Photos

Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.11a
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.11a
Easy enjoyable climbing leads you quickly to the steep finish. Once the last bolt is clipped push on quickly passed the crux before your strength runs out - the holds above the crux are good, but a fall from just below the anchors would not be pretty. Sep 27, 2008
Tyler Quesnel
Eliot
  5.11-
Tyler Quesnel   Eliot
  5.11-
One short crux section makes this an 5.11. Progressively more difficult climb starts 5.8 and moves up from there. Shares the anchor with Adrenaline if you want to work on it. Jul 22, 2011
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.11a
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.11a
Holds on the roof are there, just pull and work your way over. The feet are out to the left. 11-ish crux. Dec 21, 2011
Clif Clap  
 
The majority of the route is so easy that the crux hits you like a brick.

Some tough clipping stances if you're unfamiliar with the route - as I was. Throw in some rope drag and it was headier than I expected. Aug 19, 2014
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.11a
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.11a
I added chains and fixe carabiner to the anchors of this route. Lowering of the rings of the original anchor were notorious for twisting up the rope because the angle they were drilled in. Dec 3, 2015

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