Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (f) Torture Machine Area

Adrenaline S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Conundrum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Whammy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Conundrum S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
House of Pain S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Maximizer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Minimizer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Play S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Whammy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tangerine Dream S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Technicolor Tango S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Torture Machine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vertigo S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whammy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whammy Play S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonderstuff S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2006
Page Views: 936 total · 9/month
Shared By: Colin Parker on Dec 2, 2009
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


16 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

This climb is the extension to Minimizer, which ends at the Whammy anchors. If you are doing the extension, you can skip the anchors entirely without being unsafe; simply pass them on climber's right and continue following the bolts. The climbing quickly becomes continuous 10+ up until a challenging first crux consisting of small crimps and edges up to a decent jug right below the roof. Take a rest and shake out before committing to the roof sequence, which is harder for climbers under 5'10" or so. The last 10 feet to the anchors is juggy but still exciting if pumped out!

Location

Shares the first bolt with Whammy and then heads straight up the wall.

Protection

15 bolts, two-bolt anchor/rap

Photos

- No Photos -
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
 
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
 
I put this as 5.11d per the guidebook, but at six feet I didn't feel that any of the moves were over 5.11c. On the roof, however, I was able to reach the nice rail on the right while still holding the big sidepull with my left. If I had maybe 4 inches less wingspan, this wouldn't have been possible and I would have had to put both hands on those awful crimps... so for some this will likely be the 11d crux. Dec 2, 2009
Steve Shiflett
Upland, Ca
  5.11b
Steve Shiflett   Upland, Ca
  5.11b
The climbing is a little pumpy in the steep sections, but the holds are huge in these parts. The roof was also much easier than expected. I didn't feel it was even close to 11d. Oct 29, 2010
Ian McG
  5.11d
Ian McG  
  5.11d
Fun, crimpy climbing. Moving past the anchors of minimizer is a bit contrived- it's easy to get off route. 11d due to the somewhat height dependent nature of the crux. Nov 26, 2013
Phil Esra  
 
yeah, felt like Quarry 11d at 5'6". Gotta get the crux beta just right. Fun route. Feb 3, 2014
Broke off an 8" hold at the start of the extension (near the bolt that you clip instead of going to the Whammy anchors). After that nearly hit my belayer, I decided not to continue this extension. I would be very careful about doing this route. Feb 26, 2018

More About Maximizer

Printer-Friendly