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Areas in Riverside Quarry

(a) Slab City 1 / 25 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
(b) Metro Sector 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
(c) Left of the Roof 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
(d) Roof Area 0 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
(e) Right of the Roof 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
(f) Torture Machine Area 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
(g) Slander Sector 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
(h) Rubble Row 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
(i) Slide Zone 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
(j) The Tall Wall 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
(k) The Shield 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
(l) Anger Management Area 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
(m) Taboo Area 1 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
(n) The Alcove 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
(o) Schoolhouse Rock 0 / 14 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
(p) The Fun Factory 1 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
(q) Agony Arch Area 2 / 8 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Slab city boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Description

The majority of the Quarry is west facing, so the seasons dictate when is the best time to climb. In the summer you can climb to noon, in the winter climb in the Agony Arch area in the morning and the rest of the crag in the afternoon. When it is really windy a few climbs in Slab City are protected. This is a popular area for dirt bikers; on the weekends it can get really busy and noisy. There are so many climbs here that crowds are sparse.

The granite is very high quality and has many unique features due to the early quarrying operations. A lot of the climbs have key holds reinforced with glue and more than a few climbs have holds drilled or chipped. Most of the routes are over 100 feet, some with as many as 24 bolts. This is mostly a sport climbing area, with chains or other suitable anchors at the top of almost every climb. Many routes can be done with 10-12 quickdraws, though.

This place is a great place to spend an afternoon, but due to its close proximity to Riverside and other surrounding cities, there is a lot of trash, junked cars, and random other pieces of junk that no one wants anymore. If you are looking for a beautiful, quiet place to climb, this is definitely not it. If you are looking for an afternoon of fun climbing on good rock this is your ticket.
Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Access

The Quarry is on private property and driving into the quarry is not allowed - please park on the street. The land owner has a mutual understanding with the rock climbers and allows us to climb here. Please be respectful and keep the noise down, pick up your trash (I know it seems kinda pointless sometimes), and smile and be polite to the police officers when they come through. The more you do, the less likely it is for this place to be closed.

Food

Although there are lots of fast food restaurants nearby the preferred choice is the nearby which is just north of the 60 Freeway on the right-hand side (as you drive to the crag) which has amazing tacos (try the carne asada tacos) for $1.35 they are amazing.

Guidebook

A lot of the route beta (# of bolts anchors at the top, and locations) are taken from the guide book, for the sole purpose of providing information and developing further interest in the area. Please contact Louie Anderson (socalbolter@cox.net) to get a copy of the guide book. This are has been very well developed, and most of the cost has been paid for by the route developers. 100% of the proceeds of the guidebook go towards paying for bolts and anchors at the Riverside Quarry. The cost of the guide book is $19.95.

Getting There

From Los Angeles and points west: Take the I-10 Freeway East, South on I-15, East on the 60. Exit Valley Way. Turn left; the cliffs are now visible to the NE. Turn right on Sierra, and then left on the dirt road after the housing development.

From Redlands and points east: Take the I-10 West to the I-215 South, then West on 60. Exit Valley Way/Arnold, turn right then another right on Sierra.

188 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Riverside Quarry

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whammy
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Industrial Bliss
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flexercise
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Ho
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wonderstuff
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tangerine Dream
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trundle Trophy
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Metro
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double Whammy
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flesh and Blood
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Violator
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nostalgia
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Leviathan
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Raging Raptor
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanging by a Thread
Sport
Whammy (f) Torture Machine Area 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Industrial Bliss (p) The Fun Factory 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Flexercise (c) Left of the Roof 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Uncle Ho (g) Slander Sector 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Wonderstuff (f) Torture Machine Area 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Tangerine Dream (f) Torture Machine Area 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Trundle Trophy (c) Left of the Roof 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Metro (b) Metro Sector 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Double Whammy (f) Torture Machine Area 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Flesh and Blood (c) Left of the Roof 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Violator (m) Taboo Area 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Nostalgia (d) Roof Area 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Leviathan (d) Roof Area 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Raging Raptor (c) Left of the Roof 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Hanging by a Thread (d) Roof Area 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Riverside Quarry »

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Photos

tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
1. rockfall
mountainproject.com/forum/t…


2. What is the general parking policy/situation there now? May 13, 2017
Corey Stein
OC, CA
Corey Stein   OC, CA
ROCK FALL IN SLAB CITY AREA?!?!?!?

I went excitedly to the base of Utopia yesterday, looking forward to repeating my favorite climb at the Quarry, but I couldn't find it. After staring confused at the wall, I realized that what once was a left-facing corner, there was now only a blank face. A giant pile of boulders layer beneath it.

Anybody know when this rock fall happened?
Did it happen a while ago and I'm just behind the times? Apr 2, 2017
Amanda F
Los Angeles, CA
Amanda F   Los Angeles, CA
Hello all. My partner and I had to abandon gear on the 5.9 on Slab City Right because I fell and got a head injury, and we had to make a quick exit. If anyone is able to grab the gear I would be immensely greatful. Please send me a PM if you do and I'll get in touch with you.

All the best,
Amanda
3/4/17 Mar 4, 2017
Karalyn Aronow
Sacramento, CA
Karalyn Aronow   Sacramento, CA
When we left the quarry today we saw a black and tan Chihuahua running around the neighborhood. We grabbed her so she didn't get hit and took her to get scanned for a chip. No microchip, no collar. She looked really well cared for so we took her to the Riverside county shelter. If she was yours, check the shelter. Dec 27, 2016
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
Why is the gate on the left side open? A bunch of vehicles driving around last weekend. Dec 12, 2016
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
Nearly every time I come here I find a belay tag from either Sender One, Mesa Rim or some other ritzy gym. You may have just learned how to clean routes but please learn to clean up after yourselves before trashing the crag. Nov 30, 2016
quendalls
Chicago, IL
quendalls   Chicago, IL
Arrived at the quarry today (8/2) and as we walked up, the sheriff was pulling into the quarry. We flagged him down and asked about the fence...he said the fence is to prevent the off road vehicles from coming in. He said climbers are still allowed but just don't park inside the fence. Aug 2, 2014
Morgan Diefenbach
Forest Falls, CA
Morgan Diefenbach   Forest Falls, CA
PSA to my fellow climbers: break-ins at the Quarry are still a problem!

Someone smashed the back window of my Jeep yesterday (2/5/2014) while I was parked on Sierra. The thief (thieves) was clearly not a climber as he didn't touch my camera, rope or trad rack, and instead made a beeline for the local car stereo shop and some ghetto jewelry store in Fontana to try and make purchases with my debit card.

I will be parking well back in the neighborhood from here on out as an extra five-minute walk is well worth not fixing another car window for $230. Here's hoping others can learn and benefit from my bad experience... Feb 6, 2014
Video Climbing Guide for Riverside Quarry.


youtube.com/watch?v=-JZLiiz… Dec 16, 2013
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
The new guide is really good. Well laid out and full of the usual info you want. It also has plenty of color pictures which really make you want to get out and climb at the quarry. Jan 31, 2012
socalbolter
Silverado, CA
socalbolter   Silverado, CA
So the story takes a turn for the worse:

I was out there yesterday until about 2:00 pm. I left a static rope clove hitched to a few random bolts here and there in the middle of the affected routes, having brushed all the dirt off the exposed rock. I wanted to be able to just jug up and do the remaining work.

Returned this morning at 8:00 am to find that someone had stolen the rope and 6 or 7 draws.

The Quarry was crawling with people yesterday in this area, so someone either did this with everyone watching, or stayed around until the crag was empty and did their deed.

I did some crappy things when I was younger, so maybe this is just my dose of karma, but it really sucks to have things like this happen. Since development of the Quarry began, I've lost about a dozen ropes and untold numbers of draws and biners.

If anyone saw anything, I'd appreciate hearing about it (although I'm not expecting much...).

- Louie Jan 16, 2011
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
Thanks for cleaning that choss around Choss Revolution Louie. I've been wanting to climb that route, but last time I was there some climbers were breaking off huge pieces of rocks on that route (I'm sure it was accidently and also purposeful on the obvious loose rocks). It felt to choss to climb seeing rock fleeing down to unexpected climbers. Thanks again for keeping it safe out there.

-Jan Jan 15, 2011
socalbolter
Silverado, CA
socalbolter   Silverado, CA
In a continuing effort to make the routes at the Quarry as safe and solid as possible, I have removed many tons of expanding and loose flakes off the flake band in the middle of the routes Culture Shock, Choss Revolution, and Buzzkill.

Over the next week or so, I will clean the newly exposed rock further, replace and/or move bolts and move on to the next on a long list of "to do" items at the Quarry.

Please enjoy other routes while this work is being done.

Thank you,

- Louie Jan 13, 2011
socalbolter
Silverado, CA
socalbolter   Silverado, CA
This rock "fall" was intentionally done. That section of detached rock has been progressively shifting over the last few months. I and others had become aware of this and steps were taken to remove the rock at a time when no one was around.

The quarry as a whole is a work in progress and as loose rock is discovered it is either reinforced or removed. Sometimes (as in this case) routes are lost as a result. Rest assured that we will be cleaning and bolting the newly exposed rock, so there will be new routes on much more solid rock as a result. Mar 6, 2010
B.S. Luther
Yorba Linda, CA
B.S. Luther   Yorba Linda, CA
EDIT: A man-made break that claimed Redrum and The Sweetest Thing at the beginning of March. If you read my original post, rest assured this was intentional; apparently the rock had shown visible signs of movement so they took it down before anything bad happened. Thanks to Louie and everyone else who helps keep up the quarry. Mar 3, 2010
blane
Garbage Grove, CA
blane   Garbage Grove, CA
More break ins. Today 2/28/10 a white suv was broken into with evidence that there was another break in but the car was gone already. It appears as the person stole their gps unit. Just another reminder to be careful not to leave anything of value insight or in your car period. Feb 28, 2010
Tobin Sanson
San Rafael, CA
Tobin Sanson   San Rafael, CA
An amazing area! It offers so many quality routes from easy moderate to fairly difficult. It's proximity to L.A. and warm winter sun offer a great day trip destination and a sweet alternative to Joshua Tree. Every route I have been on is quality and worth repeating. I've noticed the Quarry holds a stunning similarity to Rifle. It climbs almost exactly the same... just no polish and nothing is drastically steep. Dec 29, 2009
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
Riverside Quarry; developed by Mark Smith and Richard Jensen. And a few others. Late 70's early 80's. Sep 8, 2009
C Miller   CA  
The (q) Agony Arch Area is really the only area that can safely and easily accessed for TR'ing without leading. Jul 15, 2009
hey are any parts of the quarry able to be toproped? i dont have a partner right now and am trying to find a place where i can set up a solo belay device. thanks! Jul 15, 2009
Taller than the pictures here might suggest Mar 8, 2009
C Miller   CA  
You can thank Louie Anderson (socalbolter) for the drive and vision to make the Quarry what it is today. There are clean-ups/maintenance days now and then, so keep your ear to the ground. Jun 4, 2008
Nate "Mustang" Johnson
Lake Elsinore, CA
Nate "Mustang" Johnson   Lake Elsinore, CA
I visited this place for the first time last week. I want to thank whoever took the time to clean up the area at the base of the shield. The benches, rock and 4x4 retaining walls are wonderful. They make the area seem very nice in contrast to the rest of the quarry. If the climbers who did that ever need en extra guy to help out, i would be more than happy to pitch in. Thanks again for taking the time to clean up this wonderful spot.

-Nate Jun 4, 2008
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
From the website maximuspress.com/maximus-pr…

Climbers’ Guide:
Riverside Quarry
Louie Anderson

April 2005 - 1st Edition
$19.95 - 124 pages - 5.5” x 8.5”
ISBN: 0-9766630-1-5
Louie Anderson Publisher

The Riverside Quarry offers superb climbing on steep, featured granite. Unlike other regional areas, the routes here are long, many of them over 100 feet in length. Not only will you find sport climbing, but a handful of excellent quality crack and aid climbs as well. All of this on a cliff that’s centrally located to all of Southern California, and with one of the shortest approaches around.
Jan 17, 2007

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