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Routes in (f) Torture Machine Area

Adrenaline S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Conundrum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Whammy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Conundrum S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
House of Pain S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Maximizer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Minimizer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Play S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Whammy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tangerine Dream S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Technicolor Tango S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Torture Machine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vertigo S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whammy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whammy Play S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonderstuff S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Chris Miller
Page Views: 1,633 total, 13/month
Shared By: C Miller on Oct 12, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

This link-up combines the easier portions of two existing routes for the easist route in the immediate area.

Start up Whammy, trending left for 2 bolts and then continue leftward (avoiding the crux of Whammy) to join Power Play at it's 3rd bolt (above it's crux). Finish up Power Play to shared anchors on the ledge above.

This route does a fair bit of wandering so it's recommended to use long draws on bolts #2, 4, 5 and to use a full length runner on bolt #3. Done this way there's little to no rope drag yet adequate protection for those climbing at their limit.

Protection

7 bolts, ring anchors (shared w/ Whammy)
Ian McG
  5.9
Ian McG  
  5.9
Chongo, I agree. Oh, and having some long draws could be a good idea to minimize drag. Aug 10, 2011
This is an ehh link up. The only enjoyable part for me was switching between Whammy and Powerplay.

I guess it's nice to have something that a 5.9 climber can finish but if you need something this easy you probably shouldn't be at the quarry. Aug 10, 2011
Erik Campos
Fort Bragg, NC
  5.9
Erik Campos   Fort Bragg, NC
  5.9
Nice climb, good holds. Exactly like Whammy without the crux. Fun climb overall. Jun 21, 2011
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.9
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.9
Despite its wandering nature it actually climbs quite well as it progresses through steep ground on good holds. Dec 24, 2007