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Routes in (f) Torture Machine Area

Adrenaline S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Conundrum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Whammy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Conundrum S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
House of Pain S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Maximizer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Minimizer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Play S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Whammy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tangerine Dream S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Technicolor Tango S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Torture Machine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vertigo S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whammy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whammy Play S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonderstuff S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2006
Page Views: 2,471 total · 17/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 11, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

Start up the ramp start of Whammy, clipping that route's first bolt, and then fire up the face, heading slightly right as you pass a small bulge. Higher, the climb trends left and features some interesting climbing as you work left and then continue higher to anchors.

Enjoyable climbing throughout it's length on this route make this yet another great warm-up for the area. There is an extension to this route called Maximizer (5.11d), 15 bolts to anchors.

Location

Located just right of Whammy and two routes left of Wonderstuff; the longer route to the immediate right is Nemesis (5.12d).

Protection

11 bolts, anchors

Photos

Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
 
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
 
Although easier than Whammy the climbing is more sustained, and provides a better series of moves. Sep 21, 2007
The climbing is definitely more sustained. I thought it was only slightly easier than Whammy. Don't get tempted and go too far right where the climbing gets a little easier after the 3rd bolt. Just go straight up otherwise you're looking at a big swing if you fall. Jul 29, 2011
wizard Lee
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.10b
wizard Lee   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.10b
Minimizer now has its own anchors instead of sharing them with Whammy. It is much higher up about half way up on Maximizer making for a nice moderately long route about 23m. Still 10b. It's 11 bolts to double chain draw anchors. Maximizer 11d is 4 more bolts to double chain anchors. Mar 23, 2013
Ian McG
  5.10a/b
Ian McG  
  5.10a/b
The climbing is much more fun and interesting than whammy or power play. Sustained 10 climbing throughout. This route deserves far more traffic than it currently gets- especially considering its location. Nov 26, 2013
davidhousky
Lake Forest, CA
  5.11b PG13
davidhousky   Lake Forest, CA
  5.11b PG13
Recent rockfall turned this fun route into a terrible dirt-fest starting about 3/4 of the way up. There's definitely at least one bolt missing, and the moves in that section have gone from 10b to almost 11b IMO. Additionally, starting there the route is extremely dirty, especially at the top move for the anchors. Every time I tried to stand up to reach the anchors dirt literally flew off into my eyes and I had to squat back down. Not fun. I'd actually recommend cutting out just before the 3/4 mark and using the anchors for Whammy to escape, pretty easy to traverse 3-4 feet left there. Apr 3, 2018

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