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Routes in (f) Torture Machine Area

Adrenaline S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Conundrum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Whammy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Conundrum S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
House of Pain S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Maximizer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Minimizer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Play S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Whammy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tangerine Dream S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Technicolor Tango S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Torture Machine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vertigo S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whammy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whammy Play S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonderstuff S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2005, Extension: Chris Miller, October 2008
Page Views: 2,349 total · 17/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 8, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

A bouldery sequence of underclings and highsteps is the crux of this route and once the underclings at the 2nd bolt are reached it's about 5.9 to the anchors. Above the 2nd bolt the climb moves right then back left on positive flakes and edges and then continues higher to a chain anchor just right of the Ground Zero anchor.

Not as sustained as other routes here which could make it a good route for those breaking into the grade. There's an extension to this route called Double Whammy - 16 bolts to anchors.

Location

Located 10' right of Ground Zero, a prominent right-facing corner system starting about 40 off the ground and about 15' left of Whammy.

Protection

8 bolts, chain anchor

Photos

mHulet
Corona, Ca.
mHulet   Corona, Ca.
The loose flake on Power Play at the Riverside Rock Quarry has been removed and a new bolt added. The moves getting to the anchor are a bit different but hopefully don't change the grade. The route was cleaned but Power Play and Whammy will be a bit dusty due to the amount of dirt that came down. Nov 1, 2017
Justin22
Costa Mesa, CA
 
Justin22   Costa Mesa, CA
 
There is a loose flake just under the fifth bolt, pretty major hold though I did not use it after feeling it jiggle. Sep 25, 2014
Clif Clap  
 
Crux moves to the second bolt are straight forward and fun while the climbing above is easy but still pretty cool. I found this route to be way more enjoyable than Whammy.

Whammy is reachy and can be awkward whereas the movement on Power Play is smooth and flows. This is the better route of the two to warm-up on, in my opinion. Aug 16, 2014
johnnydanger
California
  5.10c
johnnydanger   California
  5.10c
Bottom was fun with a few 10c moves, after that its smooth sailing on 9/10a holds above. Good length. Great climb. Oct 18, 2011
A great beginning sequence! I love the movement up to and away from the 2nd bolt. The climb mellows out considerably afterwards.

If you don't feel comfortable leading through the beginning then set up a top rope from Whammy and put in a directional at the top where you could break right to the anchor for Whammy. Jul 29, 2011
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10b
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.10b
Ah, I guess I must have thought that Maximizer was Double-Whammy then. Nov 2, 2009
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Colin - sounds like you did the extension to Power Play then finished up Double Whammy (5.11a). Nov 2, 2009
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10b
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.10b
What's the name and grade of the extension of this route. I found the anchors with chains that Chris mentions, but then continued up another six or seven bolts, past a roof with a few jams in a crack on the left. If I were to guess, I'd say it was 15 bolts, 5.11b/c. It was a ton of fun, and quite a bit left of double whammy. Nov 1, 2009
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Good news - this route has been extended and now continues straight above the 5th bolt past three more bolts to an independent anchor just right of the Ground Zero anchor. Oct 12, 2008
Isaac T.
Yokosuka, Japan
Isaac T.   Yokosuka, Japan
yes it is a pity, but if it went straight up there would be a plethora of glue and chipped holds :), or it would be way harder which isn't such a bad thing! Mar 17, 2007
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.10c
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.10c
It is a pity that the route didn't head straight up the wall. The meander left then back right spoils it. Mar 13, 2007

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