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Routes in The Ruins

Before Limitations S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Pow Wow, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Feather S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Calf Rustler T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crooked Sky S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crossed Up S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dry County S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duh Bulge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eating Crow direct S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fear of Intimacy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Four Crows S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hole Shot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Home on the Range T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
If We Bolt It They Won't Come T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jug Hunter S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kaboom T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lost Feather S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Medicine Bag S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Excuses S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
One Green Spot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oregon Trail S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Parallel Ventures T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Primal Sledge S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quick One, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Relic, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Techno Savage S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Far Gone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Eyes Arrive, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
You Call It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Glen Todd, Tony Lusk '98
Page Views: 682 total, 5/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Dec 22, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This route is easily identifiable as it is just left of the large orange stain on the wall. The start is protected by 1 bolt then takes small-to-medium-size gear, passing 1 more bolt at a small dihedral. Easy climbing from there will gain the anchors.

Location

4th route on left from start of wall. Located between the routes "One Green Spot" (Orange stain) and "The Quick One".

Protection

2 bolts, medium nuts, small to 2" cams - chain anchors

Photos

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Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10a/b
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10a/b
Gear at the second bulge is kind of fiddly down low. Stoppers just flop around and a cam small enough to go in the pinched front of the crack will tip out towards the back. You need to commit to getting a stance most of the way up the bulge to get a good piece. At that point, you're close to groundfall range so have an attentive belayer. Jan 14, 2012
Braxtron
...
  5.10
Braxtron   ...
  5.10
Gear to .5" worked well for me. In my opinion, this is the best climb on the left half (before Duh Bulge). Feb 9, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
This route protected well with medium nuts and a yellow link cam in a pod higher maybe 2" size.

I didn't find it any more difficult than the route directly left "The Quick One" which is rated .10- Dec 22, 2006