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Routes in The Ruins

Before Limitations S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Pow Wow, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Feather S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Calf Rustler T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crooked Sky S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crossed Up S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dry County S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duh Bulge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eating Crow direct S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fear of Intimacy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Four Crows S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hole Shot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Home on the Range T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
If We Bolt It They Won't Come T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jug Hunter S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kaboom T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lost Feather S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Medicine Bag S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Excuses S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
One Green Spot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oregon Trail S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Parallel Ventures T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Primal Sledge S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quick One, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Relic, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Techno Savage S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Far Gone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Eyes Arrive, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
You Call It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Tony Lusk, GlennTodd, Brian Benedon (1998)
Page Views: 520 total, 9/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Jan 6, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Ascend a low angle ramp, clipping three or four bolts, before beginning a long, vertical ascent. Engage the crux and scamper right to a corner ledge for a rest. Alternate between vertical face edges and rounded lower angle sloppers. One of the longest and most sustained routes at the Ruins.

Location

Before Limitations is located on the right (lower) side of the cliff. It is the second rightmost route before the cliff forms a corner.

The first four bolts are shared with One. At bolt four trend left, staying on the vertical face. After the crux there are two bolts that lead into the sport, steep face section of Days Of The New. Skirt to the right for a rest before continuing upwards to stay on Before Limitations.

Protection

While listed in Squeezing the Lemmon II as a mixed route, Before Limitations is a fully bolted sport route. The first three or four bolts could be avoided in favor of gear if so inclined.

A 70m rope will get the climber to the chains and back. If a shorter rope is being used a two rope rappel is required. Stopping at the anchors of One would also likely allow the climber to reach the ground while retrieving all the gear.

Photos

Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
jbak's linkup between Before Limitations and Days so the New is a very good endurance challenge, with good movement and several cruxy sections. A little bit of hollow rock detracts from the overall quality, but definitely one of the better 12a's I've done on the lower part of the mountain. You will need 19 draws for this one. Feb 4, 2014
jbak
  5.11b
jbak  
  5.11b
One of the best elevens around. I bolted the start, and the 2 bolt link-up with DAYS (with Tony's okay). The link-up with DAYS is an even better route (if memory serves), and quite a bit harder. Jan 7, 2013