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Routes in The Ruins

Before Limitations S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Pow Wow, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Feather S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Calf Rustler T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crooked Sky S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crossed Up S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dry County S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duh Bulge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eating Crow direct S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fear of Intimacy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Four Crows S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hole Shot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Home on the Range T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
If We Bolt It They Won't Come T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jug Hunter S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kaboom T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lost Feather S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Medicine Bag S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Excuses S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
One Green Spot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oregon Trail S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Parallel Ventures T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Primal Sledge S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quick One, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Relic, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Techno Savage S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Far Gone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Eyes Arrive, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
You Call It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Tony Lusk, Glenn Todd
Page Views: 843 total, 6/month
Shared By: Scott Tucker on Jun 4, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Some fun face moves. Shares anchors with If We Bolt It...

Location

Third route on wall, just right of obvious crack.

Protection

Mostly bolts with short gear section. Chain anchors.

Photos

Eric Sophiea  
 
For gear in the crack: bring some passive pro - finger size to larger nuts are far better than any cam on this route. Though the crux comes early and ends quickly, I still thought this route was fun. Even the movement on the easier ground was entertaining. Jan 28, 2014
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
I counted 6 bolts, the one just under the chains is kind a weird, probably should have been a foot lower for shorter people or something, but it's just as easy to just step up to the anchor. I didn't lead this, but would have to reccommend at least one gear placement because a slip would be a grounder no doubt.

The face about 5 ft right of the start can be toproped too for some fun ~11a moves, a piece can be placed as a directional if desired. Looks like it's been climbed before as it looked like there was some cleaning done. Dec 13, 2007
Braxtron
...
  5.9+
Braxtron   ...
  5.9+
Not much 5.10 climbing on this one. Maybe 2 moves? The crack referred to is on 5.6 territory. Feb 5, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10-
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10-
5 bolts, no gear necessary as the crack section is on easy ground. If you insist, try a 1" cam. Dec 22, 2006