Type: Sport
FA: Tony Lusk, Glenn Todd
Page Views: 1,677 total · 11/month
Shared By: Mike on May 27, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

Follow bolts over obvious bulge, then easier crack to chains. Very fun route in a great setting.

Location

Route goes directly over the obvious large bulge on the right side of Ruins Left.

Protection

Mostly bolts. A couple small-med cams will help in the crack above bulge, or just run it out over easier (5.8-ish) terrain to the chains.

Photos

Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.11a
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.11a
This would be a really hard one if the climbing was sustained 11 up to duh bulge, but then it would be like 11c/d. As it stands I think 11a is fair for a short powerful sequence. FUN! I thought the pro above was pretty crappy, but I am not too experienced. One or two pieces should be enough to calm the mind. Dec 18, 2007
Braxtron
...
  5.11-
Braxtron   ...
  5.11-
Fun moves at the crux! Pro to 1" for the good crack above the bulge. FYI: it's 25' between the crux bolt and the next one, granted it's only 5.8ish after the crux. Feb 9, 2008
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
 
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
 
this climb could be 11b if the rest of the climbing were harder, but aside from the bulge itself there's nothing on this thing harder than 5.8 or 5.9. it's basically a 5.9 mixed route with a V2 boulder problem cutting it in half.

the crux is very well bolted, but you'll want some small stuff for a placement or two in the crack above the bulge. Feb 14, 2009
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Great move over the Bulge! Good job Daryl on your onsight! Jan 10, 2011
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.11a
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.11a
Thanks Angel! Nice route.. one move wonder but really fun. Mellow run to anchors past crux on small gear. Jan 10, 2011
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11a R
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11a R
Yeah, nice work on that Daryl!

PS For first-timers, this is a MIXED route! Jan 10, 2011