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Routes in The Ruins

Before Limitations S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Pow Wow, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Feather S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Calf Rustler T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crooked Sky S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crossed Up S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dry County S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duh Bulge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eating Crow direct S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fear of Intimacy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Four Crows S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hole Shot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Home on the Range T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
If We Bolt It They Won't Come T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jug Hunter S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kaboom T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lost Feather S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Medicine Bag S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Excuses S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
One Green Spot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oregon Trail S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Parallel Ventures T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Primal Sledge S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quick One, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Relic, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Techno Savage S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Far Gone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Eyes Arrive, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
You Call It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Tony Lusk, Glenn Todd - 1998
Page Views: 357 total, 5/month
Shared By: Christian on Jan 14, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Extremely chossy bottom corner leads to face climbing above. Not recommended.

"Kaboom" makes the choss as it nearly kills your belayer ..."Kaboom" rating too..

Location

In the middle section of the Ruins, climber's right of "The White Eyes Arrive"

Protection

Cams BD .5 to 2 down low, bolts higher. Shares anchors with 'The White Eyes Arrive"

Photos

- No Photos -
John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.10b
John Hayes   Bend, OR
  5.10b
I'd done it many years ago and I'm not so sure that this climb deserves a bomb rating. So, Dave Jones and I did Kaboom earlier this week and I thought that it was actually a lot of fun. I had only taken a very small rack but the crack at the bottom of the left facing dihedral took a couple of large stoppers perfectly. From there it's straightforward to reach out to the bolt on the face. There's probably a 10b move getting around the little bulge past the bolt but most of it is easier than that. The rock at the bottom isn't perfect but the pro is really good and the moves are fun. If you like placing pro, give it a try. Jan 3, 2017