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Routes in The Ruins

Before Limitations S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Pow Wow, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Feather S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Calf Rustler T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crooked Sky S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crossed Up S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dry County S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duh Bulge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eating Crow direct S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fear of Intimacy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Four Crows S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hole Shot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Home on the Range T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
If We Bolt It They Won't Come T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jug Hunter S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kaboom T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lost Feather S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Medicine Bag S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Excuses S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
One Green Spot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oregon Trail S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Parallel Ventures T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Primal Sledge S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quick One, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Relic, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Techno Savage S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Far Gone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Eyes Arrive, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
You Call It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Description

This south facing rock makes a nice outing during the winter and has some nice variety of both grade and type (trad and sport, 5.8-5.12). Note that some of the routes need two ropes. Some nice ones here include "One Green Spot" (5.9+ sport), "Parallel Ventures" (5.10b bolts/small gear), and "Crooked Sky" (5.10d face/gear).

Getting There

Park in the lot at milepoint 4.7 and take the steep trail which starts at the north end and follows over the east ridge. Once atop the ridge and just past a fence the trail will continue down to the rock.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Ruins

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
One Green Spot
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Home on the Range
Trad, Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 41
Techno Savage
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
No Excuses
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 20
Parallel Ventures
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 55
Medicine Bag
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Crooked Sky
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 58
Black Feather
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
Four Crows
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
The Big Pow Wow
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Eating Crow direct
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 27
Duh Bulge
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
The White Eyes Arrive
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Before Limitations
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
One Green Spot
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Home on the Range
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Techno Savage
 41
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
No Excuses
 9
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Parallel Ventures
 20
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Medicine Bag
 55
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Crooked Sky
 3
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Black Feather
 58
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Four Crows
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
The Big Pow Wow
 13
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Eating Crow direct
 5
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Duh Bulge
 27
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The White Eyes Arrive
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Before Limitations
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Ruins »

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Photos

A great winter crag with a pulse raising approach. Apr 13, 2006
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
This lot is below the fee area, so if you have a choice of which car to drive up to this lot, take the crappiest one you can.

I've driven my cracked-windshield older truck up there plenty of times, but when we took my wife's brand-new car somebody decided to take a handful of gravel and throw it at the windshield while we were out of sight. Jan 7, 2007
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
For those of you who use Google Earth, I've put together an approach map. You can download it from geir.com/googleearth/lemmon/

Enjoy! Jan 18, 2010
Gordon88
Pennsylvania
Gordon88   Pennsylvania
GPS Coordinates
+32° 19' 25.45", -110° 41' 35.39"
32.323736, -110.693164

The Trail was VERY easy to follow though. Was there for my first time yesterday. Jan 7, 2013
Mike Kane
Tucson, AZ
Mike Kane   Tucson, AZ
Anyone have route info for the newer stuff to the left of Dry Country? Nov 3, 2013
Hey Mike the first three have been sorted. Nov 3, 2013
Mike Kane
Tucson, AZ
Mike Kane   Tucson, AZ
Thanks Eric. Much appreciate it. Nov 4, 2013
jaspur Chafer
tucson,az
jaspur Chafer   tucson,az
Found a pair of shoes at the crag today. Pm me with size and make/model and I gots em for you Dec 14, 2014
Here is a typical cool winter day at the Ruins on Mt. Lemmon!
facebook.com/?ref=tn_tnmn Nov 29, 2015

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