Elevation: 4,641 ft
GPS: 32.323, -110.693 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 15,607 total · 93/month
Shared By: bw1 on Mar 24, 2005
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

Description

This south facing rock makes a nice outing during the winter and has some nice variety of both grade and type (trad and sport, 5.8-5.12). Note that some of the routes need two ropes. Some nice ones here include "One Green Spot" (5.9+ sport), "Parallel Ventures" (5.10b bolts/small gear), and "Crooked Sky" (5.10d face/gear).

Getting There

Park in the lot at milepoint 4.7 and take the steep trail which starts at the north end and follows over the east ridge. Once atop the ridge and just past a fence the trail will continue down to the rock.

30 Total Climbs

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Location: The Ruins Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Ruins

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 52
● One Green Spot
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
● Home on the Range
Trad, Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 42
● Techno Savage
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 22
● Parallel Ventures
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 58
● Medicine Bag
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
● No Excuses
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
● Crooked Sky
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 59
● Black Feather
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
● Four Crows
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 14
● The Big Pow Wow
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
● Eating Crow direct
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 32
● Duh Bulge
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
● The White Eyes Arrive
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
● Before Limitations
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 6
● Fear of Intimacy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● One Green Spot
 52
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Home on the Range
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
● Techno Savage
 42
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Parallel Ventures
 22
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
● Medicine Bag
 58
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● No Excuses
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Crooked Sky
 3
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Black Feather
 59
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Four Crows
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
● The Big Pow Wow
 14
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Eating Crow direct
 6
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Duh Bulge
 32
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● The White Eyes Arrive
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Before Limitations
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
● Fear of Intimacy
 6
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Ruins »

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Photos

Rando climbing in the ruins as the sun sets
Rando climbing in the ruins as the sun sets
 1
K-Leigh @ the Ruins 1/15/11
K-Leigh @ the Ruins 1/15/11
 1
Onsighting some of what "The Ruins" has to offer....thanks as always......
Onsighting some of what "The Ruins" has to offe…
 0
Ryan Suedkamp climbing at the Ruins.
Ryan Suedkamp climbing at the Ruins.
 0
After blowing the onsight on this route (Primal Sledge) about a year earlier, I took the opportunity to check it out while rapping down "Home on the Range"..And thankfully got the redpoint a few minutes later..Love the snow near Helen's Dome in the background..
After blowing the onsight on this route (Primal…
 0
Chris on Parallel Ventures. The Ruins has one of the nicer vistas on the mountain, IMO. PHOTO BY HILLARY DAVIS.
Chris on Parallel Ventures. The Ruins has one o…
 0

9 Comments

Sort by: Oldest
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1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
A great winter crag with a pulse raising approach. Apr 13, 2006
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
This lot is below the fee area, so if you have a choice of which car to drive up to this lot, take the crappiest one you can.

I've driven my cracked-windshield older truck up there plenty of times, but when we took my wife's brand-new car somebody decided to take a handful of gravel and throw it at the windshield while we were out of sight. Jan 7, 2007
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com
Tucson, AZ
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com   Tucson, AZ
For those of you who use Google Earth, I've put together an approach map. You can download it from geir.com/googleearth/lemmon/

Enjoy! Jan 18, 2010
Gordon88
Pennsylvania
Gordon88   Pennsylvania
GPS Coordinates
+32° 19' 25.45", -110° 41' 35.39"
32.323736, -110.693164

The Trail was VERY easy to follow though. Was there for my first time yesterday. Jan 7, 2013
Mike Kane
Tucson, AZ
Mike Kane   Tucson, AZ
Anyone have route info for the newer stuff to the left of Dry Country? Nov 3, 2013
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Hey Mike the first three have been sorted. Nov 3, 2013
Mike Kane
Tucson, AZ
Mike Kane   Tucson, AZ
Thanks Eric. Much appreciate it. Nov 4, 2013
jaspur Chafer
tucson,az
jaspur Chafer   tucson,az
Found a pair of shoes at the crag today. Pm me with size and make/model and I gots em for you Dec 14, 2014
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Here is a typical cool winter day at the Ruins on Mt. Lemmon!
facebook.com/?ref=tn_tnmn Nov 29, 2015