Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,095 total · 7/month
Shared By: bw1 on Mar 22, 2005
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Nice exposure on solid rock. One of the better climbs on the Ruins. A bolt protects the initial face up to a mellow crack system with great gear. Continue up four bolts on the steeper face to the anchor.

Protection

7 draws, single set of stoppers

Photos

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Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10a
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10a
For an expert in passive pro it might be all stoppers, but most people would want to take some small cams on this. It felt more like 10a than 10b. Jan 7, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Medium stoppers and a few small cams do the trick. Only a few pieces needed as the upper section is bolt protected. Feb 6, 2007
Forest Hill
Denver, CO
 
Forest Hill   Denver, CO
 
This is one of my favorite routes at the Ruins. The gear-protected lower crux (just left of the the bulge in "Duh Bulge") makes the route for me. I usually find a blue or green alien is just perfect here. Jan 3, 2009
E IV
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10-
E IV   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10-
For some reason, I'm just not feeling the quality at the Ruins. Lots of choss. This route was ok...the only piece I placed was a black tricam. The rest of the non-bolt protected stuff is on 5.7 terrain. Feb 18, 2009
Jimbo  
Lots of Choss, at the ruins?? Your spending too much time at the gym dude. You need to get into the back country or on any alpine route, or Sedona.
Rocks ain't always as clean as the red route at the local gym.
There's loads of climbing out there where you can't just pull on everything in site.
If the ruins is too chossy for you maybe you should stay in the gym, cause the real world of rock is gonna scare the crap out of you. Feb 19, 2009
Forest Hill
Denver, CO
 
Forest Hill   Denver, CO
 
Yeah, I gotta agree with Jimbo here.

Up high on this route, if you go too far right, there's some loose rock. But only if you go too far right to avoid the 5.9-ish moves up there.

In general, the ruins is good solid rock (a few routes way down to the right notwithstanding) Feb 20, 2009
E IV
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10-
E IV   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10-
Jimbo, nice meeting you the other day. FWIW, I climb more outside than inside. Admittedly,as a newer climber, I've spent more time at cleaner areas. I fully understand that there are far worse areas but I guess I just expected higher quality rock with all the stars given to the routes at the ruins. I agree with Forest that some of the routes to the far right are worse. But there's no way I could give this route 3 stars when compared to other mt lemmon routes of its grade. Feb 25, 2009
Jimbo  
I absolutly concure that the route doesn't deserve 3 stars. I also agree that the rock on the right end of the Ruins is a bit funky.
The Ruins is no Middle Earth. Feb 27, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
Don't see 3 stars here or in SQ II. Well other than Forest and he is biased because he did the 4382nd ascent. Feb 27, 2009
Forest Hill
Denver, CO
 
Forest Hill   Denver, CO
 
Who can account for taste, I guess. Plus there is the prestige of my 4382nd ascent, like you mentioned.

I think it's really fun climbing bolted appropriately. But then it's also near the limit of what I can lead right now, so that probably makes it more enjoyable for me than for you supermen. Mar 3, 2009
Fun climb! i thought the gear and rock was good. I thought the crux took some balance and body english. It seemed pretty different than most of the climbs at the Ruins. It is very worth doing! Dec 6, 2015