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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Big Cottonwood…
> Storm Mtn Picni…
> Psychobabble Wall
Unknown
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1 from 2
votes
Routes in Psychobabble Wall
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Enemy Within, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eye in the Sky T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Eye of the Enemy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Psychobabble T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Psychostematic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rebel Yell S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rock Capades T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 40.6262, -111.7461 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 723 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | tenesmus on Nov 7, 2006 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: See details in expanded note.
Details
- Climbing at Storm Mountain is NOT CLOSED and climbers are allowed to continue to access climbing via Storm Mountain Picnic Area
- Parking in the Storm Mountain parking area requires a fee.
- Climbers are encouraged to use the Storm Mountain bathroom in order to protect our watershed.
- If climbing at or near the amphitheater in Storm Mountain (Big in Japan, Edge of Time) while the amphitheater is reserved or an event is on going, please consider climbing at other crags.
- Respect parking hours to avoid your car being gated in overnight. Gate closes at 10:00 p.m. daily
- If you did not reserve the facilities (amphitheater or picnic tables), please do not occupy or place personal items on the picnic tables.
- Please help the camp hosts keep the landscape clean.
(NOTE: these points are duplicated here from the Storm Mountain description so that they show up under the sub-areas.)
Description
Start out of the woods and climb the thin crack watching carefully for loose feet. There is a thin hands to fingers crux that would be hand-size dependent but felt 9+ to me. The rest of it is about 8 or 9 with a few crack boulder problems. Watch the loose blocks and have your second bring a hammer and knock some of that stuff off. Kinda of a cool route for where it is and would make a nice warmup for Psychostematic if it were cleaner.
I could probably have belayed from the large tree/bush to the right but opted for the comfort of the Psychobabble belay anchors. This gives you some rope drag though.
Definitely reinforcing the realization that the Psychobabble Wall is one of the crown jewels of BCC.
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