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Routes in Psychobabble Wall

Enemy Within, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eye in the Sky T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eye of the Enemy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psychobabble T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Psychostematic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rebel Yell S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rock Capades T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 63 total, 0/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Nov 7, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Start out of the woods and climb the thin crack watching carefully for loose feet. There is a thin hands to fingers crux that would be hand-size dependent but felt 9+ to me. The rest of it is about 8 or 9 with a few crack boulder problems. Watch the loose blocks and have your second bring a hammer and knock some of that stuff off. Kinda of a cool route for where it is and would make a nice warmup for Psychostematic if it were cleaner.

I could probably have belayed from the large tree/bush to the right but opted for the comfort of the Psychobabble belay anchors. This gives you some rope drag though.

Definitely reinforcing the realization that the Psychobabble Wall is one of the crown jewels of BCC.

Location

This route is actually below the Psychobabble Wall and follows the thin-ish crack system below Rock Capades. It's on the right of the underside of a fin of rock that is most easily seen from the meadow or on the Bumble Bee Wall.

Protection

TCUs through #1 Camalot, nuts, a few long draws

Photos

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We found a pin about 30 feet up, hence the unknown on who first ascended. Solid 5.9. One star. Dec 5, 2006